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The Dark Heart of Italy: An Incisive Portrait of Europe's Most Beautiful, Most Disconcerting Country
In 1999 Tobias Jones immigrated to Italy, expecting to discover the pastoral bliss described by centuries of foreign visitors. Instead, he found a very different country: one besieged by unfathomable terrorism and deep-seated paranoia. The Dark Heart of Italy is Jones's account of his four-year voyage across the Italian peninsula.
Jones writes not just about Italy's art, climate, and cuisine but also about the much livelier and stranger sides of the Bel Paese: the language, soccer, Catholicism, cinema, television, and terrorism. Why, he wonders, does the parliament need a "slaughter commission"? Why do bombs still explode every time politics start getting serious? Why does everyone urge him to go home as soon as possible, saying that Italy is a "brothel"? Most of all, why does one man, Silvio Berlusconi-in the words of a famous song-appear to own everything from Padre Nostro (Our Father) to Cosa Nostra (the Mafia)?
The Italy that emerges from Jones's travels is a country scarred by civil wars and "illustrious corpses"; a country that is proudly visual rather than verbal, based on aesthetics rather than ethics; a country where crime is hardly ever followed by punishment; a place of incredible illusionism, where it is impossible to distinguish fantasy from reality and fact from fiction.
Jones writes not just about Italy's art, climate, and cuisine but also about the much livelier and stranger sides of the Bel Paese: the language, soccer, Catholicism, cinema, television, and terrorism. Why, he wonders, does the parliament need a "slaughter commission"? Why do bombs still explode every time politics start getting serious? Why does everyone urge him to go home as soon as possible, saying that Italy is a "brothel"? Most of all, why does one man, Silvio Berlusconi-in the words of a famous song-appear to own everything from Padre Nostro (Our Father) to Cosa Nostra (the Mafia)?
The Italy that emerges from Jones's travels is a country scarred by civil wars and "illustrious corpses"; a country that is proudly visual rather than verbal, based on aesthetics rather than ethics; a country where crime is hardly ever followed by punishment; a place of incredible illusionism, where it is impossible to distinguish fantasy from reality and fact from fiction.
314 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2003
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About the author
Tobias Jones
27 books49 followersTobias Jones was on the staff of the London Review of Books and the Independent on Sunday before moving to Parma in 1999. He is a regular contributor for the British and Italian press.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 121 reviews
October 22, 2010
What's the problem with the Italian football?
Why decent and smart British authors like, say, Nick Hornby, Tim Parks and John Foot were (are?) so fascinated by that unimportant part of our culture?
Where is the romanticism in contemporary Italian football, I wonder?
Where is the fair-play, the chivalry, the grit?
For Tobias Jones has been deceived too.
Let's put ourselves in his football shoes for a few lines.
I am a British journalist.
I moved to Italy, because my girlfriend is Italian.
I live in Parma.
I have Italian friends and a praiseworthy knowledge of the Italian language including its less common subtleties.
I write about Italy as a freelance.
I am published on The Guardian.
My range of topics includes social issues, religion, culture, politics and, yes, football.
I support Parma Fc.
Well done. Let's get out of Tobias' shoes now.
Let's talk to him.
Ok, Tobias, you are maybe the only English speaking author I read so far and writing about Italy who didn't make a single grammar or spelling mistake while using Italian terms.
You have to be praised for this. I have to reckon it.
But listen, you are a journalist. You write about politics. There is a photo of Berlusconi at a rally winkling beyond the glass of an olive oil bottle in the front cover of your book.
Therefore you are supposed to know many things about the Italian power map. Isn't it?
Well, here we are.
How the Hell, Tobias, can you have the nerve to pretend that Parma Fc was the "Cinderella" (quoting you) of the seven Italian top teams? How can you dare to tell us that their victories were unexpected, creating the myth of a provincial team beating richful and powerful squads?
Parma Fc, dear Tobias, was far from being an outsider, the Italian equivalent of a pennyless 2nd Division Team winning the FA Cup.
Do you know who owned the team? Calisto Tanzi, the infamous president of Parmalat. It was the same Tanzi who bought minor players such as Thuram, Buffon, Cannavaro, Crespo or Veron in those years spending hundreds of millions of euros. And where this loose change was coming from? Parmalat.
Yeah the same worldwide company responsible of the biggest financial fraud we have ever had in Europe.
The brand "Parmalat" was printed on the yellow and blue jerseys of Parma Fc, that "Cinderella" team of outsiders you were naively supporting.
Tobias, Tobias, Tobias...
If you write about "The Dark Heart of Italy" and omit to tell us some things just because you want to please the British audience of your book, with the picturesque fairytale of the little provincial team winning over Juventus (that's actually how the book ends!), this is not very professional.
Moreover, the whole book is a bit discontinuos. My impression is that you just touch the surface of things without going any further. The book has its moments and it's impressive how much you got of the Italian way of thinking, but on its whole "The Dark Heart of Italy" is the journalistic equivalent of chick-lit novels. A bestseller with no grip.
Why decent and smart British authors like, say, Nick Hornby, Tim Parks and John Foot were (are?) so fascinated by that unimportant part of our culture?
Where is the romanticism in contemporary Italian football, I wonder?
Where is the fair-play, the chivalry, the grit?
For Tobias Jones has been deceived too.
Let's put ourselves in his football shoes for a few lines.
I am a British journalist.
I moved to Italy, because my girlfriend is Italian.
I live in Parma.
I have Italian friends and a praiseworthy knowledge of the Italian language including its less common subtleties.
I write about Italy as a freelance.
I am published on The Guardian.
My range of topics includes social issues, religion, culture, politics and, yes, football.
I support Parma Fc.
Well done. Let's get out of Tobias' shoes now.
Let's talk to him.
Ok, Tobias, you are maybe the only English speaking author I read so far and writing about Italy who didn't make a single grammar or spelling mistake while using Italian terms.
You have to be praised for this. I have to reckon it.
But listen, you are a journalist. You write about politics. There is a photo of Berlusconi at a rally winkling beyond the glass of an olive oil bottle in the front cover of your book.
Therefore you are supposed to know many things about the Italian power map. Isn't it?
Well, here we are.
How the Hell, Tobias, can you have the nerve to pretend that Parma Fc was the "Cinderella" (quoting you) of the seven Italian top teams? How can you dare to tell us that their victories were unexpected, creating the myth of a provincial team beating richful and powerful squads?
Parma Fc, dear Tobias, was far from being an outsider, the Italian equivalent of a pennyless 2nd Division Team winning the FA Cup.
Do you know who owned the team? Calisto Tanzi, the infamous president of Parmalat. It was the same Tanzi who bought minor players such as Thuram, Buffon, Cannavaro, Crespo or Veron in those years spending hundreds of millions of euros. And where this loose change was coming from? Parmalat.
Yeah the same worldwide company responsible of the biggest financial fraud we have ever had in Europe.
The brand "Parmalat" was printed on the yellow and blue jerseys of Parma Fc, that "Cinderella" team of outsiders you were naively supporting.
Tobias, Tobias, Tobias...
If you write about "The Dark Heart of Italy" and omit to tell us some things just because you want to please the British audience of your book, with the picturesque fairytale of the little provincial team winning over Juventus (that's actually how the book ends!), this is not very professional.
Moreover, the whole book is a bit discontinuos. My impression is that you just touch the surface of things without going any further. The book has its moments and it's impressive how much you got of the Italian way of thinking, but on its whole "The Dark Heart of Italy" is the journalistic equivalent of chick-lit novels. A bestseller with no grip.
May 20, 2015
Murder, bombings, money-laundering, fraud, conspiracies, monopolies, Fascism, Communism, the mafia, wealth, and an endless diet of prurient television. This was Italian politics under Berlusconi in a nutshell.
This book prizes open the nutshell and gives us all the gory details.
It also gives us fascinating insights into Italian culture generally, and is for the most part absolutely riveting. I had no idea that Italian culture was so very different from what we experience here in the UK. I’d had a whiff that their politics were a tad outrageous – our newspapers regularly had Yikes-I-don’t-believe-it moments about Berlusconi’s behaviour…but I knew very little about modern Italian culture. This book is a fantastic read for anyone wanting to get beyond the usual expat odes to Italy. Most of us who have been there fell in love with the country, but Tobias Jones is different. Whilst there are aspects he obviously enjoys, this is not a love story.
Talking about reading, herewith an extract from the book about the reading habits of Italians, which I found amusing. Jones is a Guardian journalist, and in Italy he was teaching literature classes at a university – so his views may be slightly jaundiced.
I will end with my usual bullet points of things from the book that I found particularly interesting.
P.S. One thing I have not covered in my bullet points is any sort of discussion about the very real criminal problems in Italy – affecting the judiciary, politics and ordinary people. If you want to know more this has been covered very well in a review here by Kathleen Jones.
P.P.S. This book was written I think in about 2001. Tobias Jones has posted an update with the ebook version of his book. For those seeking a quick update on affairs in Italy, the BBC Timeline for the country gives a brief but helpful synopsis.
This book prizes open the nutshell and gives us all the gory details.
It also gives us fascinating insights into Italian culture generally, and is for the most part absolutely riveting. I had no idea that Italian culture was so very different from what we experience here in the UK. I’d had a whiff that their politics were a tad outrageous – our newspapers regularly had Yikes-I-don’t-believe-it moments about Berlusconi’s behaviour…but I knew very little about modern Italian culture. This book is a fantastic read for anyone wanting to get beyond the usual expat odes to Italy. Most of us who have been there fell in love with the country, but Tobias Jones is different. Whilst there are aspects he obviously enjoys, this is not a love story.
Talking about reading, herewith an extract from the book about the reading habits of Italians, which I found amusing. Jones is a Guardian journalist, and in Italy he was teaching literature classes at a university – so his views may be slightly jaundiced.
I will end with my usual bullet points of things from the book that I found particularly interesting.
P.S. One thing I have not covered in my bullet points is any sort of discussion about the very real criminal problems in Italy – affecting the judiciary, politics and ordinary people. If you want to know more this has been covered very well in a review here by Kathleen Jones.
P.P.S. This book was written I think in about 2001. Tobias Jones has posted an update with the ebook version of his book. For those seeking a quick update on affairs in Italy, the BBC Timeline for the country gives a brief but helpful synopsis.
July 10, 2019
If you want to understand modern Italy, in all her shame and glory, this is as good as any place to start.
At first, while I enjoyed this book, I found it rather annoying. Yes Italy and Italians are different... from Anglo Saxons . Pop someone from one culture into another and of course, they will they think it is weird.
It is when Tobias Jones tries to get to the nitty-gritty of why, for instance, Italian politics spawned Berlusconi, terrorism and has infamously fractious but has ultimately stultifying politics, that I become interested. His main thesis is that Italy has an unfinished civil war that started in 1943 with the arrest of Mussolini. Now that is an idea that you can run with. Italy is different because of its history. It is the sum of its past. It is not just weird.
In Jones' favour, he does love various aspects of Italian culture. He loves the food, craftsmanship, and communal solidarity. And football. Yes, the Italians play the beautiful game beautifully... but cynically.
I would suggest reading the third or later editions because of the postscripts that are really realisations of further complexity. He realises that the nepotism and corruption that infects Italian society is also a form of solidarity. Most Italians went to the same school, in the same neighbourhood or village. It is harder to puritanically denounce your old school mate that you see every day than you think. Understandably forgiveness is given more freely.
I was reading a Facebook post from my father's home town of Trieste. It was in Italian and my Italian comprehension is shamefully bad, but I started to depressingly realise that it was about a homeless Italian woman living in a car because (supposedly) all the emergency accommodation was taken up by Africans and Arabs.
Here we go I thought, a racist meme appealing to the racist scum. This was its obvious trope. I also prepared myself for the inevitable left denunciation of the racists lies etc.
To my surprise, the posts were nearly all like, "I have a room in my apartment that she can have until she gets on her feet". "My mother is on holidays for two months. I just need to contact her first but I know she won't mind if the woman stays" etc. Italy and Italians are very far from perfect but on an individual level the first response is generosity and that can only be a good place to start from.
At first, while I enjoyed this book, I found it rather annoying. Yes Italy and Italians are different... from Anglo Saxons . Pop someone from one culture into another and of course, they will they think it is weird.
It is when Tobias Jones tries to get to the nitty-gritty of why, for instance, Italian politics spawned Berlusconi, terrorism and has infamously fractious but has ultimately stultifying politics, that I become interested. His main thesis is that Italy has an unfinished civil war that started in 1943 with the arrest of Mussolini. Now that is an idea that you can run with. Italy is different because of its history. It is the sum of its past. It is not just weird.
In Jones' favour, he does love various aspects of Italian culture. He loves the food, craftsmanship, and communal solidarity. And football. Yes, the Italians play the beautiful game beautifully... but cynically.
I would suggest reading the third or later editions because of the postscripts that are really realisations of further complexity. He realises that the nepotism and corruption that infects Italian society is also a form of solidarity. Most Italians went to the same school, in the same neighbourhood or village. It is harder to puritanically denounce your old school mate that you see every day than you think. Understandably forgiveness is given more freely.
I was reading a Facebook post from my father's home town of Trieste. It was in Italian and my Italian comprehension is shamefully bad, but I started to depressingly realise that it was about a homeless Italian woman living in a car because (supposedly) all the emergency accommodation was taken up by Africans and Arabs.
Here we go I thought, a racist meme appealing to the racist scum. This was its obvious trope. I also prepared myself for the inevitable left denunciation of the racists lies etc.
To my surprise, the posts were nearly all like, "I have a room in my apartment that she can have until she gets on her feet". "My mother is on holidays for two months. I just need to contact her first but I know she won't mind if the woman stays" etc. Italy and Italians are very far from perfect but on an individual level the first response is generosity and that can only be a good place to start from.
January 1, 2017
Being one of the first generation Italian (or more precisely, Sicilian!) Australians, Italy has always intrigued me as the place of origin of both my parents who came over between the wars. I grew up more with a Sicilian bias, but soon discovered that Italy with its stunningly beautiful landscapes, its language, cuisine, culture, art, architecture and music have a formidable reputation is the culture of the West. There is much to be proud about.
But for the modern Italian, there is also the often murky understanding of what the country is politically, and the often confounding and perplexing nature of living life within this scenario.
As a nation, Italy has a comparatively young identity stemming from its unification in the 19th-century, but that unification is perhaps illusory — there remains the divide between North and South, and since the two world wars, a further divide between Fascists and Communists. In the meantime there is the prevailing presence of of the ages old Roman Catholic Church and the peculiarly ritualistic and sometimes superstitious versions of Christianity that is Italian to the core, regardless of any other influence; plus the pervasive presence of the various Mafia organisations. In Italy, and perhaps in Italy alone, all these forces have somehow coalesced into a kind of quagmire of competing and conflicting demands, aided and abetted by an astonishingly complex and stifling bureaucracy. All of these forces have tentacles within each of the others, all feeding off the same political energies, all achieving little if anything, but keeping itself somehow alive despite (or because because of) this. Even changing government has usually led merely to further stalemates: it is as if it is all a game of musical chairs where none of the chairs are ever removed — and all you are left with is yet another combination of ineffectual stasis. How people survive within such impasses is perhaps the particular genius of the Italian people, but whether this is yet sustainable in the future is problematic.
In 1999 Tobias Jones visited Italy for a four-year stay, and while his love affair with the country and its people remains bright and shiny, his examination of this 'other' side ends up being his main concern, and particularly so in relation to the rise and rise of the mind-boggling Silvio Berlusconi as the dominant force in Italian politics. His book highlights significant events, including terrorist attacks, particularly from an historical perspective, and then traces their provenance to the present. The result is not pretty, but the information provided is immensely fascinating, and is presented in an easy to read fashion. Jones effortlessly explains extremely complex machinations, convoluted rationalisation, enigmatic occurrences, etc. which strangely are illuminating, but ultimately remain implacably complex, convoluted and enigmatic; and thus indirectly establishes the fine mess Italy is in, including its inability to resolve its own issues. It is the fact that someone like Berlusconi seems to be able to manipulate all of this confusion for his own and his Party's benefit is perhaps the more truly frightening bit. And yet, perhaps because of the way Italians in their private lives deal with all this, there is still their resilience, and their refusal to let mere politics intervene significantly in the more important aspects of living, that provides hope that this Italian spirit will not die or even fade away.
But for the modern Italian, there is also the often murky understanding of what the country is politically, and the often confounding and perplexing nature of living life within this scenario.
As a nation, Italy has a comparatively young identity stemming from its unification in the 19th-century, but that unification is perhaps illusory — there remains the divide between North and South, and since the two world wars, a further divide between Fascists and Communists. In the meantime there is the prevailing presence of of the ages old Roman Catholic Church and the peculiarly ritualistic and sometimes superstitious versions of Christianity that is Italian to the core, regardless of any other influence; plus the pervasive presence of the various Mafia organisations. In Italy, and perhaps in Italy alone, all these forces have somehow coalesced into a kind of quagmire of competing and conflicting demands, aided and abetted by an astonishingly complex and stifling bureaucracy. All of these forces have tentacles within each of the others, all feeding off the same political energies, all achieving little if anything, but keeping itself somehow alive despite (or because because of) this. Even changing government has usually led merely to further stalemates: it is as if it is all a game of musical chairs where none of the chairs are ever removed — and all you are left with is yet another combination of ineffectual stasis. How people survive within such impasses is perhaps the particular genius of the Italian people, but whether this is yet sustainable in the future is problematic.
In 1999 Tobias Jones visited Italy for a four-year stay, and while his love affair with the country and its people remains bright and shiny, his examination of this 'other' side ends up being his main concern, and particularly so in relation to the rise and rise of the mind-boggling Silvio Berlusconi as the dominant force in Italian politics. His book highlights significant events, including terrorist attacks, particularly from an historical perspective, and then traces their provenance to the present. The result is not pretty, but the information provided is immensely fascinating, and is presented in an easy to read fashion. Jones effortlessly explains extremely complex machinations, convoluted rationalisation, enigmatic occurrences, etc. which strangely are illuminating, but ultimately remain implacably complex, convoluted and enigmatic; and thus indirectly establishes the fine mess Italy is in, including its inability to resolve its own issues. It is the fact that someone like Berlusconi seems to be able to manipulate all of this confusion for his own and his Party's benefit is perhaps the more truly frightening bit. And yet, perhaps because of the way Italians in their private lives deal with all this, there is still their resilience, and their refusal to let mere politics intervene significantly in the more important aspects of living, that provides hope that this Italian spirit will not die or even fade away.
April 1, 2014
Chapters on sports, religion, politics, politics again and a half chapter on funeral customs dig beneath Italy's engaging culture. While the book shows the Italy the tourist doesn't see, the title does not fully represent the book. Tobias Jones also shows how much he loves and appreciates the beautiful country and the Italian people.
The first chapter sets the mood. Through Italian etymology Jones, demonstrates the mood and values of the country. Throughout the book, Jones uses (and translates) colorful Italian idioms. He ties it up in the end describing some words for which there is no English equivalent.
The "dark heart" of Italy is its governance. Jones shows the frustration of the ordinary citizen in dealing with a deeply rooted bureaucracy. One of many examples is the author's own job search (which was fruitless until a friend made a call) and his pay (which had many deductions and took 13 months to receive). This compares to those with connections who can blithely use or ignore the system. There are examples of complex financial crimes and "abusivisma" (illegal construction). The privileged can make appeals that can extend to a statute of limitations, a seek a legislative or bureaucratic legal decriminalization or just get their crimes ignored. There is a colorful chapter showing how corruption extends to sports through policies that would never be tolerated in the US.
The author ties these problems of a weak government to the country's extreme polarization. Italy has a strong right-wing (with a revival of the Fascist Party) and left wing (with the largest Communist Party in Europe). Here, Jones gives background with a mind numbing number of people, political parties and events. There is a chapter devoted to Berlusconi. The book, now 13 years old is prescient about Berlusconi's administrative "accomplishments" and staying power. For a more in depth look at the Berlusconi era The Sack of Rome: How a Beautiful European Country with a Fabled History and a Storied Culture Was Taken Over by a Man Named Silvio Berlusconi.
While it holds together as a book, it seems to be series of stand alone essays. There is no note of this, but concepts like "Clean Hands" are defined as though they had not been previously discussed. In Chapter 7, Jones refers to his girlfriend and 8 a flat mate; whereas, in many previous chapters he writes of his wife. Many chapters have large sections in italic print; since these sections are not attributed, I am guessing this could be material inserted from different previously published pieces by Jones.
The book is not comprehensive and probably wasn't meant to be. The mafia in its various forms (i.e. Cammora, `Ndangheta) is not singled out, but is mentioned in the political and financial sections. The low birth rate, which is curious for this family oriented Catholic country is not discussed. Neither is the influx of immigrants.
While book is over 13 years old, it is still informative. The author's keen observations span decades and are presented in an entertaining, and at time humorous style.
The first chapter sets the mood. Through Italian etymology Jones, demonstrates the mood and values of the country. Throughout the book, Jones uses (and translates) colorful Italian idioms. He ties it up in the end describing some words for which there is no English equivalent.
The "dark heart" of Italy is its governance. Jones shows the frustration of the ordinary citizen in dealing with a deeply rooted bureaucracy. One of many examples is the author's own job search (which was fruitless until a friend made a call) and his pay (which had many deductions and took 13 months to receive). This compares to those with connections who can blithely use or ignore the system. There are examples of complex financial crimes and "abusivisma" (illegal construction). The privileged can make appeals that can extend to a statute of limitations, a seek a legislative or bureaucratic legal decriminalization or just get their crimes ignored. There is a colorful chapter showing how corruption extends to sports through policies that would never be tolerated in the US.
The author ties these problems of a weak government to the country's extreme polarization. Italy has a strong right-wing (with a revival of the Fascist Party) and left wing (with the largest Communist Party in Europe). Here, Jones gives background with a mind numbing number of people, political parties and events. There is a chapter devoted to Berlusconi. The book, now 13 years old is prescient about Berlusconi's administrative "accomplishments" and staying power. For a more in depth look at the Berlusconi era The Sack of Rome: How a Beautiful European Country with a Fabled History and a Storied Culture Was Taken Over by a Man Named Silvio Berlusconi.
While it holds together as a book, it seems to be series of stand alone essays. There is no note of this, but concepts like "Clean Hands" are defined as though they had not been previously discussed. In Chapter 7, Jones refers to his girlfriend and 8 a flat mate; whereas, in many previous chapters he writes of his wife. Many chapters have large sections in italic print; since these sections are not attributed, I am guessing this could be material inserted from different previously published pieces by Jones.
The book is not comprehensive and probably wasn't meant to be. The mafia in its various forms (i.e. Cammora, `Ndangheta) is not singled out, but is mentioned in the political and financial sections. The low birth rate, which is curious for this family oriented Catholic country is not discussed. Neither is the influx of immigrants.
While book is over 13 years old, it is still informative. The author's keen observations span decades and are presented in an entertaining, and at time humorous style.
April 30, 2008
Easy-reading overview of contemporary Italian politics with a bit of culture thrown in. It's more journalistic than literary, and parses politics more than a casual reader might hope for, but Jones leaves some wonderful passages scattered throughout to keep one going. And the book's now newly relevant with the recent (re)election of Berlusconi -- if your first and final response to news accounts of Italian politics is "what the hell?", this offers as good a place as any to start pulling apart the threads.
April 1, 2012
Stendhal wrote that the feeling one gets from living in Italy is 'akin to that of being in love'. I know what he means, and so does Tobias Jones (no relation!). I read this book to try to understand otherwise incomprehensible Italian politics - the Berlusconi phenomenon in particular - and I wasn't disappointed. After a couple of weeks of reading and re-reading, I can't get my hair to lie down. The book didn't tell me anything I didn't suspect (after 12 years of coming and going) but it still shocked me by the extent of the revelations.
Tobias moved to Italy because he had an Italian girlfriend, fell in love with the place and didn't want to leave. His work as a journalist, exposing the dark side of Italian political affairs, took him into areas of Italian life few dare to venture. He researched the terrorist attacks of the 'Anni di Piombi' (the years of lead, 1970s and 80s) - bombs, shootings, mass terror, the deaths of magistrates, judges and politicians, the 'suicides' of suspects and even the abduction and assassination of an Italian prime minister (Aldo Moro in 1978). The repercussions of these events and the failure of the Italian systems of politics and justice to deal with them, still shape Italian politics today. Watch the film 'Il Divo' - Sorrentino's beautifully researched, corruscating account of what happened.
Tobias Jones's story of the 1990s fiasco of the 'Clean Hands' campaign that led to the election of Silvio Berlusconi makes interesting reading. The UK expenses scandal, the fact that our prime minister was friends with a Murdoch employee, cash for peerages, widespread phone hacking, all seem like nursery school squabbles in comparison to the daily dealings of the Italian state. And when he gets to the world of football and finance (yes they're all connected here), you finally realise what your Italian friends are up against and why most of them are so cynical about all aspects of public life.
Some of you may remember an Italian banker, linked to the Vatican, who was found hanged under a London bridge. Roberto Calvi was head of the Ambrosio bank in Milan and in partnership with a man called Archbishop Paul Marcinkus, head of the Vatican Bank, in a scheme to launder huge amounts of money into off-shore accounts, assisted by a Sicilian tax expert called Sindona. All, except Marcinkus, died mysteriously once investigations got under way. Calvi died in London in a faked suicide. Calvi's secretary died - apparently another suicide. Sindora was arrested, but given a poisoned coffee in prison as he awaited questioning. The two men assigned to investigate the fraud were both murdered and Pope John Paul was shot in an attempted assassination. Although the US federal dept had large amounts of evidence connecting him with international fraud, Marcinkus was never charged with anything.
Tobias Jones sums up what was a tortuous investigation where the name of a man called Gelli kept recurring and the trail led to a Masonic lodge of which Gelli was head - 'P2' - whose membership included 52 senior caribiniere, 50 army officers, 37 high ranking tax police, 38 MPs (including Berlusconi), 14 judges, 10 bank presidents and senior media professionals. An extreme right-wing document, the 'Plan for the Re-Birth of Democracy' was found in Gelli's secretary's briefcase at the airport. A Parliamentary enquiry wrote that P2 had 'ongoing links with subversive groups and organisations instigating and countenancing their criminal purposes' - including terrorism. If Dan Brown had written this as a novel, we wouldn't believe it.
'Behind the surface of Italian democracy,' Tobias Jones writes,'lies a secret history, made up of hidden associations, contacts and even conspiracies, some farcical, others more serious'. There is a 'white mafia of financial scams, money-laundering and international investment rackets'. No wonder Italy is in the financial shit.
But even with all this knowledge, Tobias Jones is still in love with Italy - with its people, food, wine, landscape and way of life. Now that I'm living here I know exactly how he feels. I love it too. There is a dark side, but there is also another - the warm friendship and family life, the aesthetics of food and architecture, that keeps Italians sane and enables them to live with their murky political backdrop.
Originally published by Faber and Faber Tobias Jones has recently up-dated this book with a new chapter on recent events and released it as an e-book. One person (apparently Italian) on Amazon.com has written two(!) one star reviews which seem to be motivated by the kind of Italian politics TJ is describing. The original publication had consistently four and five star reviews - 52 of them - and it earned every one. I particularly loved the chapter that asked why the nation that once created the greatest art in the world now has the worst television!
Tobias moved to Italy because he had an Italian girlfriend, fell in love with the place and didn't want to leave. His work as a journalist, exposing the dark side of Italian political affairs, took him into areas of Italian life few dare to venture. He researched the terrorist attacks of the 'Anni di Piombi' (the years of lead, 1970s and 80s) - bombs, shootings, mass terror, the deaths of magistrates, judges and politicians, the 'suicides' of suspects and even the abduction and assassination of an Italian prime minister (Aldo Moro in 1978). The repercussions of these events and the failure of the Italian systems of politics and justice to deal with them, still shape Italian politics today. Watch the film 'Il Divo' - Sorrentino's beautifully researched, corruscating account of what happened.
Tobias Jones's story of the 1990s fiasco of the 'Clean Hands' campaign that led to the election of Silvio Berlusconi makes interesting reading. The UK expenses scandal, the fact that our prime minister was friends with a Murdoch employee, cash for peerages, widespread phone hacking, all seem like nursery school squabbles in comparison to the daily dealings of the Italian state. And when he gets to the world of football and finance (yes they're all connected here), you finally realise what your Italian friends are up against and why most of them are so cynical about all aspects of public life.
Some of you may remember an Italian banker, linked to the Vatican, who was found hanged under a London bridge. Roberto Calvi was head of the Ambrosio bank in Milan and in partnership with a man called Archbishop Paul Marcinkus, head of the Vatican Bank, in a scheme to launder huge amounts of money into off-shore accounts, assisted by a Sicilian tax expert called Sindona. All, except Marcinkus, died mysteriously once investigations got under way. Calvi died in London in a faked suicide. Calvi's secretary died - apparently another suicide. Sindora was arrested, but given a poisoned coffee in prison as he awaited questioning. The two men assigned to investigate the fraud were both murdered and Pope John Paul was shot in an attempted assassination. Although the US federal dept had large amounts of evidence connecting him with international fraud, Marcinkus was never charged with anything.
Tobias Jones sums up what was a tortuous investigation where the name of a man called Gelli kept recurring and the trail led to a Masonic lodge of which Gelli was head - 'P2' - whose membership included 52 senior caribiniere, 50 army officers, 37 high ranking tax police, 38 MPs (including Berlusconi), 14 judges, 10 bank presidents and senior media professionals. An extreme right-wing document, the 'Plan for the Re-Birth of Democracy' was found in Gelli's secretary's briefcase at the airport. A Parliamentary enquiry wrote that P2 had 'ongoing links with subversive groups and organisations instigating and countenancing their criminal purposes' - including terrorism. If Dan Brown had written this as a novel, we wouldn't believe it.
'Behind the surface of Italian democracy,' Tobias Jones writes,'lies a secret history, made up of hidden associations, contacts and even conspiracies, some farcical, others more serious'. There is a 'white mafia of financial scams, money-laundering and international investment rackets'. No wonder Italy is in the financial shit.
But even with all this knowledge, Tobias Jones is still in love with Italy - with its people, food, wine, landscape and way of life. Now that I'm living here I know exactly how he feels. I love it too. There is a dark side, but there is also another - the warm friendship and family life, the aesthetics of food and architecture, that keeps Italians sane and enables them to live with their murky political backdrop.
Originally published by Faber and Faber Tobias Jones has recently up-dated this book with a new chapter on recent events and released it as an e-book. One person (apparently Italian) on Amazon.com has written two(!) one star reviews which seem to be motivated by the kind of Italian politics TJ is describing. The original publication had consistently four and five star reviews - 52 of them - and it earned every one. I particularly loved the chapter that asked why the nation that once created the greatest art in the world now has the worst television!
May 29, 2024
Very, very good book that attempts to try and explain Modern Italy and some of what goes on there without the rose tinted spectacles and geographic specificity of the James Mayle school of purple prose and navel gazing concentration on Tuscany. It helps that Jones speaks the language and married an Italian and lived a real life in Italy not that of a transplanted Englishman who is desperate to live a peasant/grand seigneur (I do realise the contradiction of that description but it is the result of seeing the way to many ex-UK residents in Italy trying to pretend they are in a variation of a Room with a View) life style in a property bought on the tribute of UK escalating property prices. It gives him a deeper insight and understanding about what was happening to the country he loved. Of course dealing with politics the points of reference have changed but honestly, politicians like Berlusconi don't just disappear - even when gone they have left a legacy and that's why this book is still worth reading.
August 17, 2023
Fascinating insight into Italian culture and society. A throughly enjoyable read.
June 27, 2024
If you want to know why Catholic-dominant countries don't work politically or economically read this book.
Corruption, Off the Charts Secularization, Hatred towards "The Roman Church," Little Work Ethic, Days and Days off of work for Saint who-ever. A damning indictment of Rome.
After reading this, read Max Webers Protestant Work Ethic and see why Protestant countries--based on the Reformation, do work economically and politically. Virtue, Morality, Individualism, Enlightenment Principles, Value of all work, Opportunity, Bottom-up (not top-down), Entrepreneurship, Accountability, Freedom of Speech, Press, Assembly, Gun Rights, etc.
It's night and day.
Corruption, Off the Charts Secularization, Hatred towards "The Roman Church," Little Work Ethic, Days and Days off of work for Saint who-ever. A damning indictment of Rome.
After reading this, read Max Webers Protestant Work Ethic and see why Protestant countries--based on the Reformation, do work economically and politically. Virtue, Morality, Individualism, Enlightenment Principles, Value of all work, Opportunity, Bottom-up (not top-down), Entrepreneurship, Accountability, Freedom of Speech, Press, Assembly, Gun Rights, etc.
It's night and day.
July 22, 2008
In a readable style, Jones discusses Italy and Italians. He even manages to make the political situation clearer. Anyone would enjoy this book who is the least bit interested in Italy.
July 15, 2021
Although written nearly 20 years ago, this is still as relevant today as it was then for understanding the nature of Italy as the important things have never changed.
Even for an Italophile like myself, this book was still an eye opener. While I may have heard previously of the raucous nature of Italian politics, the fragmented nature of the country, one can never fully understand it, but at least from this book, one can actually feel it.
Italy is a country that is best felt, not understood. Indeed, the latter is an almost futile task. This book creates a great sense of feeling for Italy.
Of particular interest to many, and highly relevant right now (following Italy's Euro 2020 victory) is the 3rd Chapter on Italian football. This can be understood somewhat, but like everything else, must be felt. Having read this chapter, I felt pleasingly comforted following England's loss to Italy, they truly are a formidable football nation, and this illustrates why.
On the whole, an absolutely eye opening book, one that is entertaining, pleasantly written, insightful, and like Italy itself, is pleasantly felt.
Even for an Italophile like myself, this book was still an eye opener. While I may have heard previously of the raucous nature of Italian politics, the fragmented nature of the country, one can never fully understand it, but at least from this book, one can actually feel it.
Italy is a country that is best felt, not understood. Indeed, the latter is an almost futile task. This book creates a great sense of feeling for Italy.
Of particular interest to many, and highly relevant right now (following Italy's Euro 2020 victory) is the 3rd Chapter on Italian football. This can be understood somewhat, but like everything else, must be felt. Having read this chapter, I felt pleasingly comforted following England's loss to Italy, they truly are a formidable football nation, and this illustrates why.
On the whole, an absolutely eye opening book, one that is entertaining, pleasantly written, insightful, and like Italy itself, is pleasantly felt.
December 21, 2014
I didn't enjoy the book, but I sort of enjoy that it just exists, because it’s the latest generation of a tiny but noble and ancient genre of books - which goes something like “British Man Goes to Foreign Land and Has a Bad Time because of Culture Shock, Then Has a Good Time Unsubtly Thinking he Passes a Native, Then Has a Bad Time Again from Deeper and More Lasting Culture Shock, Then Probably Goes Home and Writes This Book.” Also known as “British travelogues,” or really, just “travelogues.” British travelers have been writing these books since they first had the idea to travel as far as I can tell, and they’re marvelous historic records, but as this one is not yet firmly in the past, man oh man do you spend the book just wanting to smack the fountain pen and glass of barolo out of Jones’s stupid hands, as he does irritating things like italicizing all the Italian words in the book (even the Italian words everyone totally knows), which he drops on you like relentless little bombs of token culture just so you’ll be sure to notice that he speaks Italian so very well. In Italy they eat pizza. Also his writing is ponderous.
But, okay yes, his book totally hits the main value of travelogues - foreigners notice things about cultures that are so important and ingrained to the culture that actual members of the culture don’t even think about them, and then some of them write it down. So thank you, Jones, for making this interesting historic record of how 20th century Italians related to their history in life, politics, the media, and beyond, which all seems pretty messy. Thankfully he moved home right after it was published and presumably there someone made him stop acting like “Lawrence of Italia.”
But, okay yes, his book totally hits the main value of travelogues - foreigners notice things about cultures that are so important and ingrained to the culture that actual members of the culture don’t even think about them, and then some of them write it down. So thank you, Jones, for making this interesting historic record of how 20th century Italians related to their history in life, politics, the media, and beyond, which all seems pretty messy. Thankfully he moved home right after it was published and presumably there someone made him stop acting like “Lawrence of Italia.”
February 27, 2014
I had been wanting to read this since arriving in Italy and one year later I finally got around to it. Tobias Jones provides a fascinating account of life in il Bel Pease without bothering to conceal the nastier bits... rather, he focuses on them. The good: Certain things I knew but wasn't sure why (i.e. Berlusconi = bad) and this book provided me with the "why". Jones also writes in a very readable style and on several topics- football, politics, television- so that the subject matter covers a wide scope of things. The bad: having lived here for a year, the majority of what Jones writes about are things I'd more or less already realized myself (case in point: Italian television sucks!). Having said that, this is still a good overview of Italy and why all the oft made allusions to it as a "brothel" are, actually, quite appropriate.
November 22, 2014
Really enjoyed this book. I'm a tad obsessed with all things relating to Italy and so this was really the book for me. I liked it because it gave a different perspective on Italy - one that you don't normally read about - more of a glimpse into the truth of Italy. However, it loses a star because while reading it I couldn't help but think it was a tad outdated. I kept thinking - what impact has X had on Italy and whether the portrayal of Italy in the book is really an accurate portrayal of Italy as it is in the year 2014. A bit dated, but overall an excellent read. Some parts really were stranger than fiction and aspects of it do make for lively dinner table discussion if you're looking for that!
October 19, 2022
I enjoyed many elements of this book though it is now a little dated considering Silvio's mischief over more recent years. From an antipodean perspective I must say that I think it conveys as much about the English condition as it does about the Italian.
Also, clear evidence of how negative an impact editors and designers can have on a book. The clunky chapter transitions were very Yr 9 and hulking swathes of italics for no known reason.
Also, clear evidence of how negative an impact editors and designers can have on a book. The clunky chapter transitions were very Yr 9 and hulking swathes of italics for no known reason.
August 25, 2013
Recently returned from a holiday to Italy and picked up this book at the airport. It's pretty good, quite dry and certainly not a fun holiday read but it does have some pretty incredulous information about Italy - the corruption in football, the justice system, the monopoly of state TV (and almost everything) by Berlusconi. I'd certainly recommend it for anyone interested in Italy.
Still, beautiful country and amazing pizza's and ice cream!
Still, beautiful country and amazing pizza's and ice cream!
June 27, 2010
Got this book during a weekend stay in Rome. I enjoyed immensely the chapters on football and religion in Italy. Those paticular issues always remind me of this country.
On the parts on politics, I could't help but draw comparisons to Indonesia's political scene, including the similarities between Berlusconi and Bakrie.
On the parts on politics, I could't help but draw comparisons to Indonesia's political scene, including the similarities between Berlusconi and Bakrie.
March 1, 2015
After living in Italy a number of years, British journalist Tobias Jones delivers a telling and devastating insight into the complex social, cultural and political mores of modern Italy a country shaped by its divisive history. Although incisively critical there is still a deep underlying affection for the country and its people.
September 23, 2009
Very well written and informative. I would love to have a new edition with an updated afterword to include events such as Benedict's installation and Silvio's fall and re-election. Totally recommended.
July 18, 2018
Confirmed everything I've read and heard up to this point about Italy being a total freak show - broken yet beautiful. The chapter on Berlusconi is worth it alone. (A should be required reading now that Trump is President.)
April 25, 2011
An enjoyable memoir of a British man's life in Italy.This is in many ways the opposite of the Frances Mayes' books,Tobias Jones writes about Italian politics, economics, urban crime.
January 20, 2012
About 100 pages in I came to the conclusion that the interesting nuggets (and there are some) weren't worth the slog through the writing. Alas.
December 25, 2014
3.5 stars. Great information, could have been better organized in places. This book has helped me get more out of my time in Italy.
Read
March 19, 2015essential read before anyone wants to move to this country.
December 10, 2021
Це одна з двох книжок про Італію, яку я взяла з собою у подорож. Ніколи доти я не читала збірку репортажів про країну, якою водночас подорожувала. Раніше ці події відбувалися послідовно, або з великим розривом у часі. І якщо коротко: «Я у шоці!»
Англійський автор Тобаяс Джоунс описує свій багаторічний досвід життя в Італії та складні стосунки з країною, до якої він відчуває сильну симпатію, але водночас виснаження від спроби зрозуміти її менталітет, культуру, звички та політику. Якраз останньої у книжці найбільше. Недарма в анотації пише, що «книжка розрахована на істориків та політологів…».
Я купила її років п’ять тому, коли вона ще продавалася у книгарнях; і якщо чесно, я б не осилила її, якби почала читати тоді ж. Для деяких книжок треба підрости. Тепер я знаю, чому перевозила цю книжку з міста до міста протягом багатьох років.
«Потаємне серце… » стала для мене своєрідним довідником, краще за будь-який путівник вона розповідала мені про «живу» Італію, а не стежки, якими рухаються натовпи туристів. У ній не було опису величних місць, пам’яток чи давньої історії. Ця книжка про італійців, їхню буденність і сучасність. Незвично думати так про Італію, правда?
Моя знайома італійка, коли побачила, що я читаю книжку про Італію (кольори на обкладинці видали мене), ніяк не могла повірити, що там не йдеться про Римську імперію, період Відродження чи Просвітництва. Виходить, навіть самі італійці мислять себе у межах свого минулого. До речі, на питання, чому так є, Тобаяс Джоунс також намагається знайти відповідь.
Наскрізним протагоністом всіх репортажів, нитка, яка об’єднує і тримає купи цю книжку є Берлусконі. Цікаво, що автор не ставив собі написати книжку про Берлусконі. Так вийшло. В яку би сферу суспільного життя сучасної Італії він не пробував поринути — телебачення, футбол чи католицизм — звідтам виринали Берлусконі і його коаліція.
Але я не впевнена, чи рекомендувала б я читати «Потаємне серце… ». Інколи її було відверто бридко читати через снобський тон автора, такий собі англієць, що приїхав до Італії та намагається дати їй діагноз. Тож час від часу я хотіла викинути цю книжку через вікно. Але я слухняно перевозила її з міста до міста. Бо це єдине, що я мала українською про сучасну Італію, а питань я мала дуже багато.
Англійський автор Тобаяс Джоунс описує свій багаторічний досвід життя в Італії та складні стосунки з країною, до якої він відчуває сильну симпатію, але водночас виснаження від спроби зрозуміти її менталітет, культуру, звички та політику. Якраз останньої у книжці найбільше. Недарма в анотації пише, що «книжка розрахована на істориків та політологів…».
Я купила її років п’ять тому, коли вона ще продавалася у книгарнях; і якщо чесно, я б не осилила її, якби почала читати тоді ж. Для деяких книжок треба підрости. Тепер я знаю, чому перевозила цю книжку з міста до міста протягом багатьох років.
«Потаємне серце… » стала для мене своєрідним довідником, краще за будь-який путівник вона розповідала мені про «живу» Італію, а не стежки, якими рухаються натовпи туристів. У ній не було опису величних місць, пам’яток чи давньої історії. Ця книжка про італійців, їхню буденність і сучасність. Незвично думати так про Італію, правда?
Моя знайома італійка, коли побачила, що я читаю книжку про Італію (кольори на обкладинці видали мене), ніяк не могла повірити, що там не йдеться про Римську імперію, період Відродження чи Просвітництва. Виходить, навіть самі італійці мислять себе у межах свого минулого. До речі, на питання, чому так є, Тобаяс Джоунс також намагається знайти відповідь.
Наскрізним протагоністом всіх репортажів, нитка, яка об’єднує і тримає купи цю книжку є Берлусконі. Цікаво, що автор не ставив собі написати книжку про Берлусконі. Так вийшло. В яку би сферу суспільного життя сучасної Італії він не пробував поринути — телебачення, футбол чи католицизм — звідтам виринали Берлусконі і його коаліція.
Але я не впевнена, чи рекомендувала б я читати «Потаємне серце… ». Інколи її було відверто бридко читати через снобський тон автора, такий собі англієць, що приїхав до Італії та намагається дати їй діагноз. Тож час від часу я хотіла викинути цю книжку через вікно. Але я слухняно перевозила її з міста до міста. Бо це єдине, що я мала українською про сучасну Італію, а питань я мала дуже багато.
June 8, 2025
Of the following chapters, "Parole, Parole, Parole" is a "long glossary," a description of learning the language and all its implications. " 'The Mother of All Slaughters' " examines the work of the parliamentary Slaughter Commission and the tortuous, politicised trial with which it overlapped. "Penalities and Impunity" is an induction into the beautiful game and the ugly business of Italian football. "The Sofri Case" is a prison interview with the country's most famous "murderer." "The Means of Seduction" is about Italian aesthetics, about the country's visual culture, from the heights of its cinema to the depths of its televisual "videocracy." "Pietra and Parola" is a pilgrimage to the Catholic and Protestant extremes of the peninsula and traces the wafer-thin line between the Vatican and Italian politics. "Fewer Taxes for Everyone"—the central electoral slogan used by Berlusconi in 2001—is an analysis of the anomalies of Italian capitalism. "Forzismo" is an attempt to understand the iconography and implications of Berlusconi's post-democratic politics, an attempt to understand a political party which appears both incredibly new and eerily familiar. Finally, "Penisola Felice" describes why living in Italy is still, despite everything, an idyllic experience.
November 17, 2016
Not an easy read, this one, but an enlightening book about the other side of Italy, the dark heart of the peninsula. Quite the opposite of books extolling the Italian fairy tale of living the good life like "under the tuscan sun" (Frances Mayes) or "a thousand days in Tuscany" (Marlena de Blasi).
This is a book about football, scandals, the "anni di piombo", la strage di Bologna, Piazza Fontana, Ustica, the rise of Berlusconi's Forza Italia and how Italians kept voting for him even though he was a clown with a sexist attitude who made promises they could know he couldn't keep.
It's also about art, culture and what makes Italy so unique, which isn't always the sunny face.
Although he unveils the dark side as well it's clear that he also loves and admires his adapted country.
Took me a long time to read the book because, though well written and I was already familiar with most of the subjects, it still isn't an easy read. But a good one.
This is a book about football, scandals, the "anni di piombo", la strage di Bologna, Piazza Fontana, Ustica, the rise of Berlusconi's Forza Italia and how Italians kept voting for him even though he was a clown with a sexist attitude who made promises they could know he couldn't keep.
It's also about art, culture and what makes Italy so unique, which isn't always the sunny face.
Although he unveils the dark side as well it's clear that he also loves and admires his adapted country.
Took me a long time to read the book because, though well written and I was already familiar with most of the subjects, it still isn't an easy read. But a good one.
September 13, 2018
The final chapter of Jones's book begins by discussing Italy's relationship with death. Death is animated and aestheticized here, he says, not just by its own people but by outsiders coming to find one or another experience. This is a nice summary for a volume that, chapter by chapter, cuts away the beautiful clothing, scrapes off the makeup, peels away the skin of a country that seems so effortlessly seductive at first blush. At first glance Jones appears to be eviscerating this place, these people. On the contrary, as he bears witness to Italy's complicated, living beauty and tragedy, he adds blood, depth, breath to them. He has cracked open the flat mosaic or pastel surface that entombs Italy in many imaginations (including my own). He gives reality there a chance to speak for itself and show its own beauty.
August 22, 2018
This is the book I direct people to when they say they want to emigrate to Italy. It is the true story of the many problems facing Italy and their origin. I'm not saying there is an exhaustive list and all is to be found here, but what is Italy, how does it work, what are its people like, how is living in Italy for them, this book answers. I often think back to something I read in this book about the national character and football. Both things say so much about what is happening in Italy now as I watch on the news and think 'Oh yes, I read about that!' I only say that thanks to this book.
If no other then read this book if you want to know about the real Italy.
If no other then read this book if you want to know about the real Italy.
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