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Ubuntu: One Woman's Motorcycle Odyssey Across Africa

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"As you travel Africa, you will find the way of ubuntu - the universal bond that connects all of humanity as one."
At the age of twenty-eight, while sitting in a friend's backyard in the remote mining township of Jabiru, Heather Ellis has a light-bulb she is going to ride a motorcycle across Africa. The idea just feels right - no matter that she's never done any long-distance motorcycle travelling before, and has never even set foot on the African continent. Twelve months later, Heather unloads her Yamaha TT600 at the docks in Durban, South Africa, and her adventure begins.
Her travels take her to the dizzying heights of Mt Kilimanjaro and the Rwenzori Mountains, to the deserts of northern Kenya where she is befriended by armed bandits and rescued by Turkana fishermen, to a stand-off with four Ugandan men intent on harm, and to a voyage on a 'floating village' on the mighty Zaire River. Everywhere she goes Heather is aided by locals and travellers alike, who take her into their homes and hearts, helping her to truly understand the spirit of ubuntu - a Bantu word meaning 'I am because you are'.
"Ubuntu" is the extraordinary story of a young woman who, alone and against all odds, rode a motorcycle to some of the world's most remote, beautiful and dangerous places.
'"Ubuntu" is an inspiring memoir about an extraordinary journey taken by an exceptional woman. Heather Ellis writes about her most daring adventures and deepest struggles with humour, heart, guts and grace. I was enthralled by every page.' -Cheryl Strayed, author of "Wild"
'Most of us wouldn't take a motorcycle solo through Africa. Or remember much about what we were saying, smelling, believing or hoping twenty years ago. Heather Ellis did that, and has written a remarkable book about it too. She tells her story vividly and honestly, taking us through fields, national parks, into towns and down red-mud tracks, meeting other travellers and working with locals, eating rice and fish, honing her self-belief and increasing our respect for her with every day on the road. This is a really fascinating and compelling tale, told well. For anyone who has ever doubted themselves, "Ubuntu" has a there is a way through, down a road you haven't travelled yet.' -Kate Holden, author of "In Her Skin"
'No two big journeys are alike, and Heather Ellis' could not have been more different to mine, but certain fundamental similarities seem to unite us all, from the prosaic -'My bike was dangerously overloaded' - to the sublime awakenings that such journeys engender. Hers was a great adventure into the soul of Africa, a thrilling story of endurance and self-discovery, told with care, intelligence and deep humanity. It is beautifully written and a pleasure to read. So read it.' -Ted Simon, author of "Jupiter's Travels"
'Ever wondered what your life would look like if you chose to trust rather than fear? Heather Ellis does just this as she rides a motorbike across Africa. She discovers a land torn apart by war and poverty but also a land rich in beauty and kindness. Reading this book is challenging and inspiring. Heather's journey will stay with you long after you finish her story.' -Maggie Mackellar, author of "When It Rains & How to Get There"
'The next stage of our evolution is how are we to live together. Through Heather's motorcycle journey across Africa, and the African people who embrace her, we learn what is possible - this is ubuntu.' -Father Bob Maguire AM, RFD
'"Ubuntu" is the story of a motorcycling adventure that goes way beyond the physical journey. It takes you to other places too. This story has wide appeal and I reckon it will inspire both men and women, especially women motorcyclists.' -Damien Codognotto OAM
'In the 1990s Heather had an impulsive idea to ride a motorcycle through Africa and, through

392 pages, Kindle Edition

First published April 18, 2016

111 people are currently reading
420 people want to read

About the author

Heather Ellis

15 books22 followers
Heather Ellis is the author of two travel memoirs. Ubuntu: One Woman’s Motorcycle Odyssey Across Africa (Black Inc. 2016) and Timeless On The Silk Road: An Odyssey From London To Hanoi (Phonte 2019). Both books detail my motorcycle travels from 1993 to 1997. Ubuntu is is as much about Africa’s most remote, beautiful and dangerous places as it is about having the courage to do it alone. It is about a life-changing adventure into the soul of Africa where I find Ubuntu— a Bantu word meaning human interconnectedness (‘I am because we are’).
Timeless On The Silk Road is what happens as I ride my motorcycle across Central Asia after I am diagnosed with HIV in London. It is 1995, when death from AIDS is inevitable.
While both my memoirs cover the narrative journey that is filled with 'survival-against-the-odds' adventures, each is also a journey of awakening to the guiding hand of a greater force realised through the influence of chance encounters, coincidences and trust in our intuition. ...a belief... a knowing.

I live with my three children near Melbourne, Australia and I still ride motorcycles, (Triumph Thruxton 900cc, Moto Guzzi V50 and my beloved Yamaha TT600). I'm also an advocate for women living with HIV and an advocate for motorcycle road safety.

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5 stars
310 (49%)
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194 (30%)
3 stars
89 (14%)
2 stars
24 (3%)
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11 (1%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 64 reviews
Profile Image for Laura Scribner.
325 reviews1 follower
June 28, 2018
What a disappointing book. I’m not sure how the author managed to make what sounds like (and I’m sure was) such an exciting trip seem so... dull, uneventful, boring.... There was barely a speck of emotion to this book, and what little there was was directly told to us. Ie: “I felt concern.”

It seemed more like a running list of what happened with small, insignificant, emotionless conversations added to spice things up. Definitely would not suggest.
Profile Image for Calzean.
2,769 reviews1 follower
August 20, 2017
Heather Ellis's memoir of her 15 months motorcycle (mostly solo) ride across Africa in the late 1990s makes Cheryl Stray's walk in the wilderness look very pedestrian. But where Stray went looking for the meaning of life and had an epiphany or two, Ellis was on an adventure. And an adventure she had. travelling through countries at war, corrupt officials, pot-holed and sand-ridden roads, heat, rain, mud, hunger, thirst and crashes.
She did find that most people are good people, there was always somewhere to sleep, freedom, and don't worry too much as things will normally turn out OK.
Her book is based on her diary so there is plenty of details of other motorcycles she came across, where she slept, what she ate, how much things cost and her various illnesses.
This is not a travel writers book which looks in depth into the soul of Africa. Rather it is about an incredible achievement and the people who helped along the way.
Profile Image for Rhiann.
342 reviews19 followers
September 4, 2018
I had high expectations and was disappointed and frustrated by this book. Not enough detail about the lives of the African people she met and too much repetition about the universe and fate working out etc. Such a treasure trove of material that just wasn’t explored.
Profile Image for Bernadette Weston.
47 reviews2 followers
June 28, 2018
I must begin by saying I am not a devotee to the travelogue. This book may well be grand. A disappointment to me personally. The most awe inspiring destinations were visited without a moments’ description. I never felt I was along for the adventure.
40 reviews
June 28, 2018
I just couldn't get into this book. Part I believe is the writing. I did not care for and will not finish it.
Profile Image for Brenda Kittelty.
364 reviews2 followers
June 12, 2016
Great story of an epic journey, but I couldn't get past how this was a kind of holier-than-thou African version of Eat, Pray, Love. Clearly I need to look inside myself to understand why I was so intensely irritated by this woman.
Profile Image for Bülent Esin.
1 review
August 6, 2018
It is an incredible achievement that a young and beautiful woman traveled about twenty-five years ago in Africa with a motorcycle and almost no technological possibilities on her own. Heather Ellis, while sharing this adventure with us, created a wonderful novel using a simple and fluent language.
Profile Image for Ryan Mazure.
11 reviews
September 10, 2020
This is one of the best books I've read in a long time! Even though the events happened over 25 years ago the novel still remains timeless. The ending really shocked me and added to the beautiful story. You'll just have to read it to find out what happens!
Profile Image for Cassandra.
325 reviews3 followers
June 13, 2018
While I thought the journey was interesting, there was something off putting about this book. I don’t know if it was the writing, but this just wasn’t the book for me.
1 review
September 9, 2016
This isn’t really about a motorcycle ride across Africa. For me it's about a small, stubborn woman on a bike deemed too big for her, accomplishing all she put her mind to by trusting her instincts, her faith in humanity and fate itself. The deep sense of spirituality in this book extends to everyone and everything around Heather, yet she isn’t religious (Look up the meaning of ‘UBUNTU’ to get an insight into what this story might mean to you). I was hooked immediately, and found my reading slowed drastically coming into the final chapters, in an attempt to savour what would soon end. It finished, and I cried at the final pages.
An absolute pleasure to have been placed upon Heathers ‘TT’ and witnessed Africa through her compassionate and optimistic perspective. What an experience for someone like me who is not a risk taker. I don’t ride a motorbike and nor would I consider myself a reader of memoirs. In fact I only own 2: ‘Eat Pray Love’ by E. Gilbert, and P. Mayle’s ‘A year in Provence.’ Both I believe were made into movies, as I’m certain Ubuntu will too- I see a young ‘Jackie Foster’ on the ‘TT’. Recommend it to anyone who feels disconnected sometimes.

Now yearning for more… hurry up Heather and lets get a sequel…
Profile Image for Jorge.
47 reviews12 followers
September 20, 2018
Fantastic book. Definitely recommended

An incredible journey and a mind blowing adventure. A proof of Africa's outstanding humanity. It's also quite a fun read.
Profile Image for Susan.
1,002 reviews18 followers
July 13, 2022
Very entertaining, something i couldn't have even contemplated doing, armchair travel at its best.
Profile Image for Tiger Coward.
45 reviews2 followers
February 1, 2025
Hello Friends,
There is a new addition to the Tiger Coward Adventure Motorcycle Library: Ubuntu by Heather Ellis.

The subtitle on the book cover is terribly understated: ONE WOMAN'S MOTORCYCLE ODYSSEY ACROSS AFRICA.

This is a superbly written book about an incredible journey by an inspirational person. This is a must-read for all of you who enjoy this genre.

This pre-internet journey took place between 1993-95, and the book was published in 2016. I am sad that I robbed myself of a decade without reading this!

Sometimes, I am asked to rank the books in the collection or to name my favorite. However, I have become quite skilled at dodging that request by asking the following question, “what do you like most in a book?"” I sound like a weasel from Ottawa. I know. But it works. However, today, I will tell you, without hesitation, that this book is in my top 5 books that I have ever read.

Let me tell you the 5 things that I love about this book:

1.Bravery
This book might be an adventure motorcycle book, but it reads like a thriller. Travels through war zones, encounters with gangsters, bathing in crocodile infested waters, and even an early morning run from a con man and an angry village are part of Ellis’ story. Combine this with inherent dangers of a woman traveling alone in Africa and the predictable mechanical issues with motorcycles, and you have a thriller that I couldn't put down.

Even Hollywood could not have created a better hero. In true Hollywood fashion, the hero of this thriller morphs from naive and scared to brave and strong. This transformation has earned my sincere admiration. I hope that you see it too.

2.Honesty
Heather Ellis doesn't hold back in this book. She reveals how unprepared she was for the Odyssey that she undertook. She openly shares her fears and her mistakes, which are admirably balanced by her faith in humanity and her dreams of traveling the world.

This raw honesty is intoxicating, and it draws the reader so deeply into the story that you will share her fears and pains as well as her triumphs. At least it had that impact on me.

3.Determination
On this trek, Ellis met many travelers who had reached their breaking point. They called this being “Africa'd out.”

Having to endure difficult road conditions, heat, and illness led many western adventurers to abandon their voyages. Others were affected by the poverty, corruption, and the constant culture shock that the continent showed them. But, the author thrived on all of these challenges and was relentless in pursuing her path no matter what hurdle she faced.

4.Positivity
Ellis was fueled by the belief that good things would happen tomorrow because good things happened today. She carried an unwavering positive attitude that allowed her to see the best in all of her obstacles and interactions.

This is a refreshing outlook and a direct contrast to what we see in the media today. As such, I recommend that you stop all social media interactions and read this book instead. Of course, the Tiger Coward YouTube channel and Facebook page are the only exception to this rule.

5.Ubuntu
“Ubuntu - the universal bond that connects all of humanity as one.”

This is what the author was seeking in Africa, and she found it. She discovered that if she expected goodness from people, she would find it. Ellis called this her “grand adventure for a greater meaning.”

Ubuntu and the grand adventure for greater meaning sets this book apart from so many of its peers. I know that this book was popular years ago but I think it is particularly important in current times. Read it, and you will see what I mean.

So, yeah, I totally recommend this book. Additionally, I suggest that you buy her second book Timeless on the Silk Road so that you can continue on the journey with Ellis as she completes her world tour.

Ps. I am currently reading Spirit Traffic by C Jane Taylor.

Ps x 2. You can see my other reviews by searching Tiger Coward Adventure Motorcycle Library on Facebook or visiting Goodreads and searching Tiger Coward Moto Reads.

Ps x 3. Some of my reviews have been added to my YouTube channel. You can check them out in the Tiger Coward Moto Reads playlist on my channel. Tens of people already have!
27 reviews
June 6, 2018
I absolutely loved this book. The only reason I didn’t give it 5 Stars was because, I felt the writing lacked and could have been more descriptive. However, I had moments where I just couldn’t put it down.

I was also conflicted about her journey. Reading this In the aftermath of Otto Warmbier who took a simple guided tour to North Korea and ended up being murdered, and was portrayed by some as a fool for going.

This woman took much greater risks and put herself in a daily situation of death by riding her motorcycle in areas that put her in the middle of war zones, corruption, robbery, and rape, areas where the law was not on her side. Yet, she is considered someone to be admired because she lived to tell about it.

I ride and I definitely could not have dealt with some of her problems. I do think it’s a must read, especially for woman. The will and determination this woman had was unlike any I had seen. She believed Ubuntu got her through. She was definitely a smart woman, who trusted her intuition

I definitely admired her strength and perseverance, while she talked a lot of Ubuntu I still think she came out of it- not knowing her purpose.

I’ve recommended it to several other women and I will probably read it again. Also she had pictures in her book and I wish there were more.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Kelsey Mangeni (kman.reads).
449 reviews29 followers
May 31, 2024
The OG Itchy Boots.

Surprisingly I don’t read a lot of travel memoirs, and figuring out how to review this one is making me realize why that probably is.

It’s very hard to untangle the book itself from the travelers experience. This white woman at first irritated me with her pride to just show up on the African continent, without any planning, to make her way across. But at the same time I think you need to be wildly audacious in order to do something like this and maybe that’s what makes it a good story?

After the first section, I started enjoying it more once she is interacting more with local people (while still putting herself in very dumb, unsafe situations)

I could have definitely used more emotion and her thoughts while on her journey than the play-by-play we mostly got.

She did occasionally say things that perpetuated stereotypes and idealized colonial times, but I really admired her commitment to positivity and not letting the difficulties of traveling through Africa make her jaded (until the very end, she was eventually worn down)

The ending of the story and her travels were very abrupt, but it does make me want to see if she’s written any more about her journey back to Australia.
Profile Image for J. Domino.
Author 10 books19 followers
June 1, 2020
Let me start by saying that this is an amazing story. The author Heather Ellis has pieced together excerpts from her travel across Africa, via motorcycle, mostly unaccompanied. What started as a travel adventure turned into her search for Ubuntu - "the belief in a universal bond of sharing that connects all humanity."

It is daring, at times scary, but enlightening and uplifting as well.

Her account of riding back roads though wilderness, encountering hostile natives, dealing with corrupt immigration officials, and finding help in some of the most unexpected places is nothing short of incredible. As someone that feels uncomfortable when landing at a strange airport, I am in awe over what she accomplished.

While the story is compelling, the book is not without its flaws. Which is why I only rated it 3 stars.
The pace of the story sometimes moves along too briskly making you wonder if you missed something. Then other times it drags. I often found myself lost in Africa, not sure where she was at or where she was going. But if you are willing to hang in there and follow Heather’s lead you will be rewarded with a remarkable experience.

It may even change the way you think about the world.
Profile Image for MaryJo Hansen.
253 reviews3 followers
February 15, 2023
In 1993 Heather Ellis , an young Australian woman, road her motorcycle alone across Africa, starting in South Africa and ending her journey a year later in Mauritania. Along the way she discovered Ubuntu, a word meaning "the universal bond that connects us all". She sleeps in a tent, in sand and mud huts, eats goat and drinks camel milk (among other things) offered by the people she meets along the way. She also contracts malaria 3 times, scurvy (not enough camel's milk) and shares beers with fellow travelers She wrote this book 20 years later based on her journals . Besides the danger of traveling through countries in civil war mode, meeting up with fellow travelers, seeing many ancient sites along the way, and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, her journey was also spiritual.
Personally I thought she was crazy to do this at all, much less alone. However as a big armchair traveler, I appreciated her story.
Profile Image for Kim.
32 reviews
January 31, 2024
I don't even know the last time I gave a 5-star rating but if I could, I'd give this book 10+ stars! This book practically jumped off the shelf and into my arms as I'm a motorcycle rider and a world traveler so what more needs to be said? Well alot more! Reading about her spiritual awakening and/or leaning into the ubuntu universal philosophy had me highlighting pages and passages and buying more highlighters. Reading about her adventures and "misadventures" had me reading well into the wee hours. When I wasn't reading this book all I could think about was this women's incredible strength, confidence, empathy, generosity, and vulnerability. Her writing is extremely honest and detailed. I will treasure this well worn and annotated book! Next up and already in my library is her book about her return home from Africa via the silk road. I will also be adding books about the unbuntu philosophy to my library.
2 reviews
February 5, 2024
I saw a number of fairly negative reviews and am trying to get my head around why many people had a different experience of this book that I did. With that said, I'm not trying to say they're wrong, but I do want to offer my perspective as someone who has done some motorcycle riding, a lot of bicycle riding, and even more car camping/touring. Most of all, I was struck by Ellis's willingness to consistently choose the hard option. A trip like this takes more grit than I've ever mustered for an adventure and I really admired both her courage and her willingness to accept - even rely on - the goodness of others. Also, tales of people going to foreign countries and doing important work or making meaningful contributions to the local residents are fairly common. Narratives like this, however, where the author is the one benefitting from the contributions of local residents are not often told. This may not be for everybody but this book has a level of authenticity and vulnerability that I found very refreshing.
Profile Image for Lee Belbin.
1,238 reviews9 followers
June 5, 2017
An amazing book. As you will see from my reads, I grab any adventure travel book and boy, I have reads some unbelievable ones. Walking around Australia (With Every Step) was a hard act to follow but Heather's ride across Africa was even more epic on many dimensions. I cannot imagine myself doing it (and I have ridden a motorbike for 50 years), let alone a 30 year old woman. Truly awesome. I valued Heather's honestly shared feelings along the journey. My neck almost got sore from shaking my head at so many situations she found herself it, but as she says Ubuntu was true, except for the one and only almost fatal liaison in the whole journey. A message there. I'd love to meet you Heather. Also coincidental that a German friend is currently riding around Australia on his 650 (without me, due to bad timing).
1 review
February 24, 2019
I went to Africa recently and I was excited to read this book. I enjoyed the descriptions of the
land and people but I became tired of worrying about her. Her behavior was very careless.
Who travels alone in dangerous areas and gets drunk and smokes weed around people that
she knows might take advantage of her? Also, who thinks having malaria several times
in a year is ok? She admitted to not taking the required meds like she should.
I was upset most of the time while reading because of her lack of common sense.
Maybe that was her goal.
Profile Image for Sierra The Book Addict.
200 reviews
July 18, 2019
This book is fascinating; Miss Ellis shares the story of her journeys threw Africa, and how yes there a many more people within Africa, many thieves, but even in the most hardship of war and life, there is kindness, and how living threw the eyes of the innocent changes one's perspective of the meaning of life. Her journey of being a white woman, alone in a torn continent on a motorcycle in the '90s gives a view of respect, that was deserved.

I enjoyed reading this for it was not the most fantastic read, but it was delightful and fascinating to read mone the less
Profile Image for Degan Walters.
739 reviews23 followers
October 22, 2023
An account of an amazing adventure across Africa in the 90ms by a woman travelling alone on her motorcycle. I am once again (after reading the sequel first) agog at the risks she took but not surprised that she found many people to be helpful. It’s a strange book in that I didn’t really learn much about Africa, and nor did I learn much about the author. It reads like a long list of events…plot-driven without a lot of nuance or emotion. Her journey was very long and the book published many years afterwards so maybe this is a result of retelling from sparse notes.
Profile Image for Helga.
102 reviews
February 20, 2018
I really enjoyed this book and I am waiting for the next one. I love travel journeys written female travelers. Isabella Birds books are amongst my favourites. It is great to read about what amazing things women can achieve and I also about how amazing Africa is. I loved the picture that Heather painted about Africa. In this book Africa is the place to be, in total contrast what the news make people believe.
Profile Image for LL.
241 reviews
May 11, 2018
Stunning journey . Thanks for writing this.

More then just a trip. Well written and informative. Lots of adventure and empathy for others in the world . Seeing Africa through the authors eyes gives you a point of view you may not expect because of the news out of Africa now and twenty years ago. The insightful look at her life and struggles is inspiring. The "gut feelings" are worth paying attention to.















Profile Image for Patti St.
Author 1 book14 followers
July 20, 2019
Intriguing and inspiring

A young Australian woman decides on a whim to ride her motorcycle from South Africa all the way to the top of the country, alone. This book is her true memoirs of her adventures. Through illness and hardships, she meets kind strangers who go out of their way to help her get a long with her journey. Her story takes place in the mid to late nineties and has all the makings of a great memoir.
8 reviews
December 21, 2020
I enjoyed this book. It may not be a work of great literature but as a diary of a journey through Africa with all its terrors and delights it is an insightful and unpretentious story that’s well told. The author does get quite philosophical at times, but given the circumstances, it’s clear we would have had to all wrestle with notions of meaning and purpose.
I’m a biker so that might be part of it but I’m glad I read this book and I salute the author.
Profile Image for Venetia Green.
Author 4 books26 followers
July 29, 2018
What a lovely book - it makes me want to dream big and go on a wild adventure, just like the author. Heather Ellis rode a motorbike from South Africa to the eastern Sahara, and discovered 'ubuntu' - the human generosity and interconnectedness - along the way. This book relates her travels in a simple, engaging manner and is very easy to read.
4 reviews
October 11, 2018
Good Read

Good read whether your a cyclist or not
Heather does a great job of integrating her trials, difficulties, with an indomitable spirit.
Great descriptions of the people she meets. In addition, one should read this as an approach to life with all its situations.....both bad and good.
Profile Image for Itamar Junior.
52 reviews
February 28, 2021
I enjoyed this book more than I anticipated. Not only the ups and downs of a "trip of a lifetime", but how much your life can be impacted by each little decision you make. Still, there is a strong message that making bad mistakes every now and then is much more fulfilling than shielding yourself from disappointment and risks.
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