“Thin, like paper, light and doughy in the middle, crisp and delicate as honeycomb at the edges, the appam is tempting even before it is filled with a ladle of lush vegetable curry. It shares many of the attributes of a pikelet or crumpet, a round disc of batter, bland and comforting, but stretched until its edges are as fine and crisp as Belgian lace. Of all the yeasted dough goods throughout the world, the appam is the lightest and, at its best, the most fragile.”