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Our English and French Watering-Place
Dickens Travelogues
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Our English and French Watering Places - 4th and 5th Summer reads (hosted by Petra and Ann)

Broadstairs is a quaint seaside village in East Kent, about 80 miles east of London. It was a favourite destination for the Dickens family from 1837 to 1859. “You cannot think how delightful and fresh the place is and how good the walks,” Dickens once remarked.
Over the years, Dickens enjoyed his visits to Broadstairs, where he worked on Nicholas Nickleby (1838) and David Copperfield (1850). He found his inspiration for Betsey Trotwood here, in Miss Mary Pearson Strong, who chased away donkey-boys from in front of her cottage.
Today, Broadstairs continues to celebrate Dickens with a number of Dickens Walks and an annual Dickens Festival.
In 1851, Dickens wrote Our English Watering Place as a tribute to this lovely seaside village and his love of it.

In the autumn the city becomes an unbearable, unlikeable place to live.
Every year, the Dickens family retreats to a quiet beach town. A quaint town, set atop chalk cliffs; sunny and sleepy.
As he writes he sees that the tide is out. Corn fields are blowing in the wind, looking themselves like the wavy sea. Butterflies and sea gulls are everywhere.
But the ocean lies quiet, “like a drowsy lion”. Hardly a ripple on the shore, the fishing boats are studded along the shore, a quarter mile from the water, turned on their sides. Ropes, cables, posts lie upon the beach. Seaweed is tangled and draped over the area.

Broadstairs was the fishing hamlet associated with the inland village of St Peter's,
Anciently, Broadstairs was called Bradstow. This was derived from the “broad stairs” carved in the chalk cliff, that led from the sands to the 12th century shrine of St Mary situated above the cliffs.
In the middle of the 18th century, gentlemen and gentleman farmers started to arrive in the locality and built seaside residencies. The relatively remote position attracted the nobility seeking seclusion, including the Princess Victoria.
By the 1850s the professional classes had arrived, and steady town expansion took place: the population doubled in 50 years to 3,000. As the town grew, artists, writers, and poets started to visit, and the seaside holiday industry started.

I am looking forward to our discussion here. Dickens, like always, wrote a delightful essay commemorating a place he loved.

As he looked over the sea, the corn fields; as he watched the wind ripple the grasses; as he observed the boats on the beach......I could be there with him, almost. It was a wonderful description of a quaint, sleepy holiday town where the soul can relax and enjoy each day.

These were bluff-bowed, round-sterned, strongly-built ships that were in common use from the ports of Northeast England in the second half of the eighteenth century. They were designed and used to carry coal.


"our two colliers have not an inch of water within a quarter of a mile of them, and turn, exhausted, on their sides, like faint fish of an antediluvian species."
I really like the word "antidiluvian". When does one get the chance to use that word in a sentence?! Count on Dickens to do so. LOL.


That's great information that Dickens found his inspiration for Aunt Betsey Trotwood here. She was such a favorite character for most of us!

I'm going to need months of travel time to see everything.

This essay was written in 1851. The history of Broadstairs states that artists and writers started flocking to the town in "the 1850s". That makes Dickens a trailblazer, it seems.
I love artist havens. It would have been exciting to visit Broadstairs and see the artistry happening on it's streets and know that words are being written in its rooms.

The town has passed its heyday. It was said that the Assembly "Rooms" once held lively balls, but this can hardly be believed in today’s sleepy, quiet ways. However, one elderly gentleman insists that the dancing, especially with the Honourable Miss Peepy, occurred. No one can believe his story but it is confirmed by the Master of the “Rooms”, who had tears in his eyes at the memory.
Looking at the “Rooms” today (Dickens’ time), it is impossible to believe such splendour existed. The “Rooms” are lucky today to be booked for a ventriloquist or a juggler and never would the entertainment return for a second show.
When such an occasion does occur, the dusty, hardly-played-on billiard table is pushed to the side and benches placed throughout the room. A meagre audience arrives, and a rather lacklustre performance (of both performer & audience) is gotten through. Afterwards, the performer quickly leaves town, never to return.
The “Rooms” are also always booked for an annual “Fancy and Other China” auction and sale. The China, year after year, is always the same plate. The Master of the Rooms announces each lot for sale, no one bids, no one buys. Afterwards, the China is repacked and taken back to wherever it is stored until the following year when it is again brought out and displayed.
This annual performance of China reminds the Dickens family of a similar auction elsewhere for a collection of clocks supposedly the work of Parisian and Genevese artists….an event that disappeared without notice, as did the clocks it tried to auction away.

This essay was written in 1851 and Bleak House was written between 1852-53 in 20 serial instalments.
Dickens seems to have been thinking of Bleak House already, one year before starting the writing.
Connection:
(view spoiler)
Petra wrote: "Jean, this essay and the pictures I've seen of this lovely town puts Broadstairs squarely in the "must see" list of places to visit when/if I ever make it to England..."
One of the London schools I used to work in used to have an annual "school journey", where teachers and children alike were based on a (self-catering) barge on the Thames for a week, but had outings to places like Rochester and Broadstairs. A great opportunity to introduce them to places Charles Dickens loved, and in both towns the residents are very proud of him!
Charles Dickens never lived permanently in Broadstairs, but it was his favourite holiday resort. He stayed there with his family for a minimum of one month every summer, right from 1839 when he was becoming established as a successful writer, through until 1851.
One of the London schools I used to work in used to have an annual "school journey", where teachers and children alike were based on a (self-catering) barge on the Thames for a week, but had outings to places like Rochester and Broadstairs. A great opportunity to introduce them to places Charles Dickens loved, and in both towns the residents are very proud of him!
Charles Dickens never lived permanently in Broadstairs, but it was his favourite holiday resort. He stayed there with his family for a minimum of one month every summer, right from 1839 when he was becoming established as a successful writer, through until 1851.

It must have been a fun month for the Dickens family each year. Broadstairs looks like a place to go and unwind.

Breeches were a common garment for men from about the 12th century until the early 19th century. Afterwards, as in the case of the Master of the 'Rooms', breeches were considered formal wear.
Breeches replaced Hose around the 12th century. The difference between them was that Hose were 2 pieces of clothing, one for each leg. The private areas were covered by either a codpiece or a long tunic. Breeches connected the two pieces into a single garment, attached at the waist with a button and under the knees with ribbons or buttons.
Sometime in the early 18th century, breeches were replaced by long trousers.
The Master of the 'Rooms' had a position that required a formality that must have seemed quaint to Dickens in such a relaxed, seaside village.
Broadstairs now has "The Dickens House Museum" on the seafront, displaying many artefacts relating to Charles Dickens and his life in Broadstairs.

That sounds so seedy and uninspiring. I can't imagine such an announcement arousing a lot of interest, yet it does. This sleepy little town looks to be entertained.
I like how Dickens is portraying the town as a perfect vacation get-away. It has something to offer, if you want to take it on. But if not, it has the beach and waters.

That would be a must-see, Jean.
Broadstairs also has it's own Bleak House, that Charles Dickens stayed in. It was called Fort House then and was his residence of choice in Broadstairs. It was here that he wrote part of David Copperfield.


LOL there's a distant view of it in Mrs. Dickens' Parlour today, showing the exact spot, with the reminder for this read.
Thanks Petra, we are in synch :)
Thanks Petra, we are in synch :)

Beside the “Rooms” is the library.
In the library are a rusty, dusty, non-turning Wheel of Fortune, as well as a large doll up for raffle. This doll has been on raffle for seven years. There is hope that soon the draw will occur. Down the street from the library is another raffle for a toy-ship in the same situation. Two of the boys who entered the raffle have grown up and sailed away in real ships.
The library is a collection of sentimental and gothic books, much read and notated on, reminiscent of the sorts of books published by Minerva Press. The commentaries of the many readers are scribbled into the margins, particularly comments by a Miss Julia Mills.

Miss Julia Mills was a character in David Copperfield, published in 1849, two years before this essay was written.
(view spoiler)

Along with the ventriloquists and other entertainment is ‘an Infant Phenomenon’. Dickens has a character in Nicholas Nickleby known as The Infant Phenomenon, perhaps inspired by a performer he saw in Broadstairs then?

That is a good catch! Dickens is inserting a number of his characters (or some close reference to them) in this essay. It makes it even more entertaining than it is. It's such fun to find these hidden references.
Nicholas Nickleby was published between 1838 and 1839. It does seem likely that Dickens is making a subtle reference to his book.
Thank you for pointing this out. What fun!

Bleak House - the Honourable Miss Peepy
Nicholas Nickleby - an Infant Phenomenon
David Copperfield - Miss Julia Mills
David Copperfield - Miss Betsey Trotswood

The Infant Phenomenon in Nicholas Nickleby is such a delight! I have lots to share about her when we come to read it together :)

While at first this sentence is humorous at the thought of the raffle being held off for so many years, it's also a show that Life continues around the town and that the people have close ties and support each other to the bitter end.
It's a sad, sweet and touching story.

I think it's telling how many times Dickens says "our," our watering place, our shops. He must have really felt he belonged there and taken some ownership of the place.
As others have said, I want to see it now! Going on the bucket list.

Group-trip!
It would be nice to travel to Broadstairs and spend some time there.
I'm so glad you're enjoying this essay and have joined us here.

The doll raffle in this essay requires 25 members and the boat raffle 9 members. That means, I think 25 tickets and 9 tickets respectively.
The prize can't be drawn until all tickets are sold.
What a laugh that this town, plus it's many tourists through the seasons, cannot entice 25 and 9 people respectively to purchase a ticket.



The main street of the town looks like any other street in the town.
One can tell its main street by the abundance of donkey chaises.
The town’s police man is also there, he’s the one in uniform and never dealing with the law.
The stores offer such delights as faded pin cushions, old stools, objects made of shells.

She lived at Broadstairs, Kent, and died on 14 January 1855; she is buried in the St. Peter's-in-Thanet churchyard.
Her sister, Ann, married Stephen Nuckell, who was a prominent bookseller in Broadstairs from around 1796 to 1822.
Mary Pearson Strong's former home now hosts Broadstairs' Dickens House Museum.


This house once belonged to Mary Pearson Strong, whom Dickens often visited whilst on holiday in Broadstairs, and who would chase the seaside donkey-boys from the piece of garden in front of her cottage – the garden is still there, and still belongs to the house.
This was one of his inspirations for the character of Betsy Trotwood in 1850 novel David Copperfield, part of which he wrote in the town.
According to the reminiscences of Dickens’s son, Charley, Miss Strong was a kindly and charming old lady who fed him tea and cakes. He also remembered that she was adamantly convinced of her right to prevent the passage of donkeys in front of the cottage.
From: The Broadstairs Lady who inspired Charles Dickens
(Goodreads won't let me link to the article)

https://www.goodreads.com/topic/show/...
Petra, you take my breath away with all these enticing posts! Thank you.
As for the raffle, I have a lingering thought that maybe it was considered too racy? Certainly I knew several older people who disapproved of such things, as gambling, and would not buy raffle tickets.
As for the raffle, I have a lingering thought that maybe it was considered too racy? Certainly I knew several older people who disapproved of such things, as gambling, and would not buy raffle tickets.
I'll link to my post about Miss Mary Pearson Strong, during our group read of David Copperfield ... no lovely pics, but additional info, and it puts it into the context of Charles Dickens's life: LINK HERE.
Kathleen - Perfect observation about the possessive, and cosy, "our" :)
Kathleen - Perfect observation about the possessive, and cosy, "our" :)


It's a peaceful, if obstructive, scene. Imagine making one's way to the shops while manoeuvring around donkeys eating their clover....donkeys that are completely closing off the street.
I do feel sorry for them that they are harnessed all day. But I suppose that letting them off harness would be chaotic, at best.
I wonder what Miss Mary thought of these grazing donkeys.
Books mentioned in this topic
The life of Charles Dickens. By John Forster. Volume v.3 1872 [Leather Bound] (other topics)Pictures from Italy (other topics)
American Notes for General Circulation (other topics)
The History of Tom Jones, a Foundling (other topics)
Our School and Our Vestry (other topics)
More...
Authors mentioned in this topic
Charles Dickens (other topics)John Forster (other topics)
Charles Dickens (other topics)
Charles Dickens (other topics)
Henry Fielding (other topics)
More...
Here is the thread to discuss Our English and French Watering-Place, which will be led by Petra and Ann.
Reading is between 25th July and 13th August.
LINK HERE for Petra's summary of Our English Watering Place (1851).
LINK HERE for Ann's summary of Our French Watering Place (1854). The reading schedule is in the previous comment.