Paul Read's Blog: Speaking Of Spain

In 1936 the Anarchists collectivised the vehicle industry of Barcelona. What made this act revolutionary was that the Anarchists organised things in their own way. Anarchism says, everyone can have a go, and so we saw some of the most radical car designs on the street of Catalunya - such as the double armour-plated vehicle with a mattress stuffed in between the plates. Sounds crazy but they had their reasons. Find out what these were and listen to the who story in audio format or read in illustrated PDF. 
Get the new 10 minute Series of Forgotten Stories from Spain -  for free here.  DOWNLOAD FREE AUDIO STORY

Imdb rating 7.5 The Endless Trench or Trincheras Infinitas is a film (now on Netflix starring Antonio de la Torre and Belén Cuesta) based on the stories of the ´topos´ - those that went into hiding at the end of the Spanish Civil War. These people hid for fear of reprisals from the Francoist forces who were carrying out a violent campaign against known Republicans that had resisted the Nationalist victors. In particular, those republicans that had made public their politics, such as Manuel Cortes, the Socialist mayor of Mijas (yes, the very same donkey-ride town on the Costa del Fun) who hid behind a constructed wall in his village house for over 30 years. 

Cortes was just one of many, that survived - or died this way, knowing that the alternative was imprisonment, torture or even death.  His story was first told back in the early 1970's when British writer, Ronald Fraser* interviewed Cortes for his book: In Hiding. First published in 1972, the book reveals his political background, his involvement with struggle for equality and education in Mijas and his later choice to flee the pueblo.   As Cortes leaves Mijas to head for Malaga, the coastal city is invaded by Italians, tanks and Franco's feared Moroccan troops that spare no-one as they plough through a defenceless coastal town. Malaga had hoped for Republican reinforcements, to protect them, they had awaited reinforcements that they were told were on there way, but none had come. There was little choice but to evacuate the city, and Cortes found himself part of that exodus along the coastal road that came to be known as the Carretera de Muerto. 
The Story of the Malaga Exodus, and the horrific journey to Almeria and beyond is told in the audio and ebook 
The Ambulance Man and the Spanish Civil War. (Read more here) Cortes eventually finds himself back in Mijas at the end of the War, wishing to hand himself in to the authorities, but is convinced to go into hiding after learning that other Republicans had been shot after giving themselves up.  And so beings his 30 years -  In Hiding.  
Finally, a general amnesty is issued by Franco in 1969 to commemorate the 30 years since the ending of the civil war. Cortes is able to finally step outside his house and register as part of the amnesty. Within a few years his story is told, recorded and printed as the book: In Hiding (1972) by Ronald Fraser. (An excellent graphic documentary was made on the story of Manuel Cortes (30 Años de Oscurdiad) and shown at the film festival in Seville back in 2012. Fiona Flores Watson, describes the backdrop to the film here. ) La Trinchera Infinita (filmed in Higuera de la Sierra, north of Seville) is a compilation of accounts that depict the tragedies, the sufferings and the tension lived by the topos and those that supported -  in secret -  their concealed lives.
But don't think for a moment that this is just a story of a man hiding behind a wall. It is a story of lost freedom, loss of family unity and loss of identity too. But more importantly, it is a story of unbearable claustrophobia against a backdrop of lost hopes.  Nominated for umpteen Goyas, Trinchera Infinita tells not of a single man in hiding, but that of a whole nation too. *Ronald Fraser was a member of the editorial board of New Left Review. He also wrote Pueblo and Blood of Spain.  Read More Stories from the Spanish Civil WarGeorge Orwell and the Spanish Civil WarNorman Bethune and the Spanish Civil War American Women in the Spanish Civil War​​Get hold of ebook and audio versions here.

¡Cuánto tiempo sin verte!
Back in Andalusia after a while away and there is a lot to catch up on. More interesting is how I perceive the country now, after being away for a few years. All to be revealed, but this week back to work and the long awaited completion of the audio version of 1984 and the Spanish Civil War. A tempting glimpse of part of the new image above. More later.... 

At a time of great instability, with the Spanish Government clinging to power with fragile coalitions, Andalusia governed by a far right assembly, Britain sinking beneath the waves with the Brexit shambles and the USA, well reaching tipping point, it seems that the world needs to sit back for a moment. To step back and think things through, without concerning ourselves with winning elections or staying in power.  Of course it won't happen, at least not in any productive way for that is how the system was set up, to patch the leaking holes and float on for a few more yards.  So in the absence of a true revolution.... The gazpachomOnk has been planning a return. At the moment, he's wrapped up in unpleasant stuff, but will soon reappear on the table top of tapas. Writing the complete SLOW ROUTE HOME novel is taking up a lot of time. But expect it out sometime late Spring 2019.
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So we had this idea: To hold onto something your must learn to let it go. 
Back in early 2015, my partner (Cherry) and I realised that to continue working from home we had to leave the home behind. To find the motivation and stimulation for online work, we realised that you have to get out and move about more. Otherwise, what happens? Work gets stagnant or worse, repetitive and you end up just repeating what else is being written. And that's not a good. 
So we packed in our jobs in town, scribbled about the process, invested in a little mobile equipment (tripods, easels, gorilla stands, microphones, flask, a bigger portable hard drive and a travelling water bowl for the Hound. Then planned stage 1. 1: The Works After 20+ years in Spain, and accompanied by a 15 year old Hound, we moved out of our home and into rented accommodation and began to turn our house into two flats. The idea was to 'Airbnb' part of the house as we travelled (to finance the accommodation we would need).  2: The Delays Yawn: Same old story. What was intended as a 2 month reform, turned into a 6 month delay, finally completing at the end of last year. But talking about building works is rather dull, and people tend to get obsessive about listing minute and uninteresting changes to floor colours and window frames, so lets skip this part. We spent just one month back in the new place, preparing it for rental, before Hound mobility issues compelled us to move on. The Airbnb rental page was in place, 2016 had arrived and we had found a cheap flat in Portugal. 3. Portugal & Airbnb Expect only the unexpected. Portugal was an inspiring, cultural, linguistic and climatic challenge. We produced a lot of good creative work and despite a few mishaps, the experience was very positive. We even got our first few Airbnb bookings. The future looked as though it was working out the way we had planned it. Ha ha. We should have known better. First off, news came of the changes that Andalucia were introducing to accommodation booking where an online financial transaction took place. These new regulations (targeting Airbnb) would necessitate yet more structural changes to the flat that were completely out of character for an old house in an old part of town. This was just the tip of the iceberg. Andalucia was insisting on a whole series of measure that would make it impossible for us to conform to the new regulations. The hotels celebrated. The digital revolution stepped back. Hosts began to desert the platform on mass. We joined them. But, we now needed a new plan.  4: Almeria and the new plan. The hound meanwhile, was not well. He could no longer travel and needed to stay in one place. Fortunately, friends offered a house-sit in the dustiest province of Europe, and as the Hound wobbled about, we threw ourselves into work. I produced 15 new videos each month, podcasts, articles and some great new musical collaborations.  But the rental issue remained unresolved. We clearly needed a solution that did not involve an online financial transaction, but one that would enable us to balance letting out our flat in exchange for moving around in other peoples homes. So we looked at home swapping. 
House swapping was always a bit of an organisational challenge. Given the logistic difficulties in finding a swapper that wished to come to you the very week you wish to go to them, it was never going to an ideal solution for many people. But then, someone tacked on a clever little addition: points.
The point system works this way: someone stays in your flat one week (whilst you are about travelling) and you accumulate points for this. Those points can then be used to stay in someone else's flat (anywhere in the world).
​Suddenly, we had a new option.  5: Month by Month So now, its June. Next week we are moving on. We have registered with a site called Guest to Guest. It has more choice, more information and is far cheaper than some of the competition, that may look prettier but are far less comprehensive. 
June also represents new changes and challenges. Britain votes on leaving the EU, and Spain votes on either staying exactly as it is - or - to change. Whatever the outcome of these elections, I don't wish to be passively watching from a fixed position. Another term under Rajoy will drive us away, and if the UK pull out of Europe then the call of lands further afield will be difficult to ignore.
Work meanwhile continues at a pace, new workshops each month, podcasts, new courses and  - perhaps most significantly of all for us - the hound is no longer here. He made it this far, but was called away last week to attend to other more celestial matters. 

So, where to go next month? Another province in Spain or further afield? How will the June elections affect this decision?  Will Andalucia backtrack and rewrite the rules for Airbnb or will Guest to Guest prove to be the future for a new travelling generation?  I wish I knew the answers, but then again, I don't. The fun is in seeing these answers unravel month by month. 

You can follow my crazy production schedule, over at teapotmonk.com, check out the images on Instagram or Pinterest (follow - teapotmonk), listen to the podcasts or catch the videos on Youtube (teapotmonk) 

This weekend marks an anniversary special, thats worth noting down: 79 years for the Republic (what republic!) - the one that the people voted for, that one! Since it was sadly overthrown in a military uprising, no-one has deemed to ask the population if they would like it back. Maybe one day....

Then we have the birthday of Durruti (who?) - ah well, you'll need to read this to find out, and stay tunes, as his wacky and unbelievable bio is to due to be released later this year. Subscribe for details as to when. 

Finally the mOnk too has been celebrating, not just his own birthdate, but those of family and friends around the world. So sit back, and for 15 seconds, tap your foot to the sound of a turning tide

It's never been so easy to be seen as a terrorist... Yes, summer 2015 looks to be a hottie in just about every conceivable way. One hot topic of the moment is the extent to which people in Spain can speak out about injustice or abuse of the law. Given's Spain's recent poor record in these areas, you would think the government would be making it easier for us to report such abuses. But no! The opposite is true and today - 1st July 2015 -  these restrictions on what you can and and cannot do becomes law.  How does this affect me, I’m only interested in the beach, filling my pool or the sangria jug?
Well, though you may think it doesn't affect you, it would be wise to at least be aware of how your conduct may be interpreted by the good officers of the state. Read below for a list of some of the new crimes that have been invented by this government and then, pin it to your fridge door so that this summer, you don’t accidentally end up with a heavy fine or being exported as a terrorist for simply visiting a web page, taking a photo of demonstration, or looking blankly at policeman in the course of his duty. 12 Changes in the Law You Need to Know About 1: If you photograph security personal and then share these images on social media: Up to 30.000 euros fine (particularly if photo exposes violence being used against a member of the public). It is possible that this fine may be increased depending on the number of Instagram followers you have. 

2: Tweet or Retweet information or the "location of an organised protest" can now be interpreted as an act of terrorism as it incites others to "commit a crime" (now that "demonstrating" in many ways has become a crime). Sounds 1984-ish?  Read Orwell and his time in Spain. 

3: Snowden like Whistle-blowing is now defined as an act of terrorism. If you write for a local rag, careful what you print, who you speak to and whether the budgie is listening.

4: Visit or Consult terrorist web sites - even for investigative purposes - can be interpreted as an act of terrorism. Make sure you use “Tor" browser, reject cookies, don’t allow pop-ups, and don’t post it on your FB timeline! Hmmmm. Is Speaking of Spain a terrorist website? 

5: Careful with the royal jokes! Any satirical comment against the royal family is a new crime “against the Crown”. For example, "What did Leticia and the Bishop have to say after they...(SORRY CENSORED)

6: No more hassling elected members of the govt. or local authorities - even if they do say one thing in order to be elected, and then go and do the exact opposite. Confronting them about this hypocritical behaviour -  if you see them in the street chatting to that street cleaner , dining at their favourite expensive restaurant, or having their shoes shined by that physics graduate who can't find a decent job in the country  -  hassling them about their behaviour is now a criminal offence. 

7: Has your local river been so polluted by that plastic factory along the edge that all life has been extinguished. Well, tough! Greenpeace like protests are now finable  from 601 - 30.000 euros.

8: Protest in a spontaneous way outside Parliament - for example if Parliament passes a hugely unpopular bill, or are debating something extremely important to you or your community - is now finable from 601 - 30.000 euros. TIP: Use Google Maps to protest "just" round the corner - only don't tweet the location!

9: Obstruct an officer in the course of their business (evicting someone from their house for example), or "resisting arrest", refusing to leave a demonstration when told to do so or getting in the way of a swinging baton - are all now finable offences from 601 - 30.000 euros. 

10. Showing lack of respect to officers of the law is an immediate fine of 100 - 600 euros (Answering back or asking a disrespectful question, making a funny face, showing your bottom to an officer of the law or telling him/her that their breath reminds you of your dog's under-parts is now, sadly, not advisable)

11. Occupying or squatting or refusing to leave an office, business, bank or other place until your complaint has been heard as a protest - 100 - 600 euros fine (No more flashmob demo’s). 

12. Digital protests: Writing something that could technically “disturb the peace” is a now crime: Bloggers beware, for no-one had yet defined who's peace you could be disturbing.  Terrorist Alert! Oops! Showing Disrespect and Disturbing the Peace - 600€ fine for political pooches. Bloggers Beware Of course a lot of this is impossible to enforce (yet),  but, nevertheless, should you be out and about and see a commotion in the street - a dog disrespectfully peeing up the tyre of a police patrol car, a lost tourist doing a quick selfie with a Civil Guard in the bar - think twice about snapping an image on your mobile phone and posting it to your FaceBook timeline. It could an expensive post.  Like this? You might also like to read.... Democracy in Spain Podemos? The Scottish Anarchist in Spain

Over the last 20 years I have lived in at least 12 different houses or flats in 6 different provinces in Spain. 

Some people ask what have I learnt from all that experience of moving around, and my reply is always: "not a lot". However, if you were to ask me surreptitiously about where best to live in Spain, I might be tempted to pass on the GazpachomOnk’s 5-Point Warning List for Buyers in Spain

Of course, not all Estate Agents are carnivorous, some I've met personally* and can vouch for their high standards and honesty. But I've also had dealings with a dozen others, none of which I would feel safe to leave my budgie with.  
So here it is - the Property-Speak Nonsense that needs deciphering: Print it out and keep a copy tucked down your socks at all times. Ready? Steady? Go...... (read on) 1: Country Hill-Side Villa! Views and Room for Extra Floors Check the Inclination of the Property first and foremost Watch out for access issues: "Country path" often means you can't get to it in anything other than a tractor. Take a compass too. If someone says "how cool it is"  - this means it's generally North facing (no sun all winter) and "great views" often means it's on top of a hill -  exposed to tornados, hurricane winds, pterodactyl attacks and with little or no top soil on the ground. So, you can forget about planting the organic tofu-bush this year. 

CHECK POINTS
Check the bottom floor is still underneath the top floor.
Is that rock or slate the house is built on? Does the building appear to lean a little?
Stick a finger in the soil. What colour is your finger? Was there any soil? 
2: Charming Town House: Original Beams in Old Quarter Room for an ambulance to arrive? "Charming" sounds, well charming, but first take a walk around the nearby streets. Is there car access? Can a fire-engine get down that alleyway? How will you get that fridge delivered? Will the sun ever enter the house at all? Can you see your neighbours telly from your bathroom? Can your neighbours see your belly from their Telly?

CHECK POINTS
Do the floors dip as you walk across them?
Stick an ear up to the beam. Hear any munching?
Do all your neighbours look strangely like one-another?
At what unearthly hour of the morning does the bombona van deliver?
Do strict OLD QUARTER planning regulation prevent you from even dusting the front of the house?Remember: Those minute port-hole sized windows are that size for a reason. Don’t be tempted to replace them with floor-to-ceiling glass because in August - you might come to regret it.
3: Self-Sufficient! Live The Dream - Private Drive, Well, Mountain. Your very own 2km dirt track Yes - Live the Dream with your very own Mountain Top Farmhouse - including your very own 2km exhilarating drive. Self sufficient. No Bills! Sunny all year! Solar Energy! Own Well! 

CHECK POINTS
Remember that a 2 km dirt track means you have to maintain it - come landslides, rainfall, bush and tree growth, pot-holes, Wild Boar confrontations at night.
Bear in mind that some people may be reluctant to deliver stuff, visiting doctors may turn back half-way along for fear of never reaching the house. Sunday Hunters though, are unlikely to be put off, so expect plenty of 4X4's and rifles every weekend.
Take note re groceries: it may take 30 mins to go get the bread/empty your bins/buy some drinking water.
Check on your mountain is there phone cover? Internet or helicopter access should you accidentally chain-saw off an important part of yourself?
Is there any shade for the house when temperatures reach over 40?
Can you run anything more powerful than an iPad on those batteries and how old are they again?Is that well going to dry out in June once the newly built olympic sized pool is filled? 
Can you see right down the valley towards the sea? Great isn't it. Now imagine the winds hurtling up the valley and rushing back carrying all your garden furniture, nephews and dog with it. 
4: Modern Flat in Private Complex! Secure! Safe! Communal Pool. Winter Quiet and the pool to yourself It may seem like paradise in Winter as you are the only residents amongst the 1000 flats, but come summer it may suddenly feel as though you've moved to Tokyo as every inch of the URB is occupied 24 hours a day.

CHECK POINTS
Check the bins are not situated near your windows. You may regret it in August.
Quiet? Maybe it is quiet now, but those mac-book-air thin walls will transmit sounds from other provinces during those long summer nights. 
Nice quiet pool? Now Imagine it with 4.000 people and their funny swimming implements all trying to get in it at the same time. 
5: Charming Traditional Cortijo up Dry River Bed. Good Parking. The "Dry" river bed before the flash floods hit. Remember, they are still called rivers for a reason. Dry they may be now, but come the flash floods in spring and autumn, watch-out as torrential rains sweep everything up in there path. 

CHECK POINTS
Check the river bed for washed up trees, old bangers, old men, dogs, boxes of dominos and other once living creatures decomposing to one side.
Always carry an inflatable dingy in the boot and a spare snorkel for emergencies. 
Think of swapping the Vauxhall Corsa for something more amphibious.  3 Final Points..... Buying in Spain can be a nightmare, but can also be an adventure. Rent first if possible to get a feel for the place and to find out about both the positive and negative before investing your life savings into the big unknown. 
Secondly talk to people. People that employed their brains when deciding to move out, and not just the remote control during a TV series on Expats moving to the costas. 
*Finally, not everything in Spain revolves around corruption and exploitation, though you may be forgiven for thinking so the way the International press covers the country here. In Spain there are good people, honest people fighting to make things better both politically and socially. If you are serious about buying in Spain, I'd suggest getting in touch with someone reputable. Who is reputable? As I say, ask around. Use forums and social media or....If I was coming out now, I'd ask this guy. (And no, I'm not on a commission). 
Want More Stories of Living in Spain? Maybe You'll like.... 3 Book Special Offer Gerald Part 2

You may be forgiven for thinking that the terms in the title of this short post are mutually exclusive. Particularly if you have been listening to any of the absurdities spouted by politicians these last few days. 
In the aftermath of the 2015 local elections, it appears everything is up for grabs  - including truth - and the sight of politicians salivating publicly in their lust for power, or resorting to defamation and libel as they see power slipping though their podgy fingers, is enough to make one despair and turn aside. But hold on, the story is not over yet...

A Clash of Values The fanatic struggle for power in Madrid is bringing out the best and worst in people. With Espe Aguirre's ego dented and the threat of being ousted by a group of what she calls "bolsheviks micro-funded online and renting cheap offices in the capital",  her once rock-steady boat in the centre of Spain has been dutifully upturned. 

And its precisely the figure head of Manuela Carmona that appears to be doing the rocking, merely by offering herself up as a candidate free from corruption, as someone that cycles to work rather than rides in a limousine, someone free from any manipulation of the media, no history of dismantling public services and no history of speaking without thinking first. 
Two of the office lawyers shot by right-wing militants are buried. Black Monday But it's not just what Manuela has not done that is important, it's what she has done. Manuela Carmena - has always been a defender of workers rights. As an active lawyer she was arrested under Franco, fighting for the rights of the oppressed. She co-founded the lawyers office in Madrid that fought for workers rights - the very same office that went down in history as Black Monday

On the 27 jan. 1977, as the transition to "democracy" limped painfully forward, the office of Manuela Carmona at Calle Atocha 55 was invaded by right wing armed militants. They shot nine people. 6 died. 

2015: May. Espe Aguirre - sinking in her own pile of excrement - accused Manuela of being part of a threat to "democracy" and offered to lead a coalition of all other parties to save Spain from the biggest threat to western democracy: Manuela Carmona and her political party - Ahora Madrid.

It is difficult not to conclude that Espe is  - once more -  playing the manipulative politician here, or  - like Thatcher in her final days - she is mentally unstable. As someone who once worked in a psychiatric institution, my professional opinion is that were she to be brought to me for diagnosis, I would have her incarcerated immediately and placed in an isolation ward - for the safety of the general public. Street demos in Madrid against the shootings in 1977 Democracy in Spain So what do we mean when we sling the word "democracy" around? Well,  it would not be unreasonable to define it as a form of political representation that encourages participation from citizens, rather than passivity. That it means giving all people a voice rather than always speaking for them, and it means honesty, transparency and accountability. Perhaps most important of all, it means speaking from an informed point of view as opposed to making up facts on the spur of the moment to suit your own agenda.
When Aguirre was questioned where she got the idea that Ahora Madrid would be establishing "soviets in the barrios of Madrid", she had to admit she had never read their political program at all.  

As an old an venerated politician once reminded us,  the questions we should ask when talking about democracy are: "What power have you got? Where did you get it from? In whose interests  do you exercise it? To whom are you accountable? And how can we get rid of you?"

I would add to this just one more:  And have you been taught to read? 

Take out 5. Stick the Kettle on. Dig out the bourbons. Stick Granddad on the allotment. Slide off those thigh length boots and put your tired footies up on the dog, for today, the GazpachomOnk not only talks about how the past is shaping us today, but, he's giving it away too. Yup, free today, a bite-sized chunk of yesterday - this 1930's Photobook on Spain that may just be as old as that cardigan your Granddad has on.  READ MORE.... Spain: 1936 Get Your Copy Below Ancha es Castilla I'm told that some people come to live in Spain for the climate. Others come for the pace of life, the food, the sense of community or the views from the pool-side terrace of their newly purchased country home. All valid reasons of course, but not too long ago, there were other ones that drew people to these shores. 

From Brenan's latent sense of libertarianism: "I found in Spain a kind of freedom and spontaneity that I missed at home. What in our country one gains in social order and justice, one loses in zest and vitality." To Bethune's search for a cause : "I'm going to Spain because it is in Spain that the real issues of our time are going to be fought out" (Read more on Bethune here...) Principles still as valid today as then. 
Marlon Brando, takes time out from the set of "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof" to fight a quick revolution. The past is never dead We all have our stories, and if I'm honest, I too came in search of one. It was a story about a people that had survived a remarkable past, and I wanted to see how much of that spirit was still present. I needn't have worried, for as I arrived I saw the truth of what Faulkner had said...The past (in spain) is never dead. It's not even past. 

It was as if history hadn't died, but somehow co-existed with the present. It infused, fuelled, inspired, overlapped, and at times even obstructed the present from coming out to play.  

But history - I'm told -  is not everyone's taza de té. YouTube compilations of snoring dogs, or a slideshow of Sean Connery's eyebrow postures after the last UK election result, tend to be more popular amongst recent immigrants. Even those who have dunked a toe into the tides of change, who with great pride, can identify Franco from a identification parade when lined-up alongside Michael Fish, Bernie Winters and Walt Disney - generally start to nod off when greater details get thrown around. 
Some still believe today is happening today  History has always been more than dates and names.  History tells us that the story is never over. There is no escaping her call. Step outside your door and there she is, waiting sensibly in the shadows.  Step back inside the house and there she is again, seeping out between the cracks on the walls, behind the loose repro al-andalus tiles, or that that patch of damp coming through from next door. 

She is our constant companion. She's what gives context to the now, explaining and accounting for all we see and hear around us. Her presence (hopefully) is what distinguishes the 2-week sun worshipper from the you.  Go out on a limb, for that is where the fruit grows. 
So invite her into your life. Because, some say, history repeats itself, and this year, we are seeing a move away from the cosy centre ground and a return to an era of ideals. An era in which the edges are taking shape again - as they have done before in this country. Look around and you will see that the past is not over yet. It's alive and kicking just as vigorously as always. 


And let's remind ourselves, history runs forward, never backward. 
Get the Free Photobook on Spain from another era - here SPAIN : Released 1936 to North Americans
To commemorate the circularity of life, the mOnk presents this wonderful publication from 1936. Yes, of course, it's a magazine of pure historical propaganda - it's noble aim was to raise awareness for the struggle of the Republic - to raise money for clothes and provisions for the people, whilst a anxious world looked the other way.  

Today cliched and simplistic, but back then it composed a desperate plea, from a desperate country, it was published by the United Youth Committee to aid Spanish democracy and features Fernando de Los Rios, Spanish ambassador to the U.S, who writes the introduction.

Find a free downloadable copy here: 
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