Pushpam Singh's Blog
April 2, 2020
March 19, 2020
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November 23, 2016
The 16@Goechala Pass
Because we also love these mountains
Day 1 – NJP to Yuksom (5770 ft)
Riding on the success of past two treks, yet not quite ignoring the preparations that were recommended for this trek, we arrived at New Jalpaiguri Railway station early on the 30th of October 2016, having taken an overnight train from Kolkata. After a quick breakfast, the six of us – Aditya, Rounak, Prashanth, Unni, Anurag, and, I, Pushpam, left for Yuksom. We were joined by Arka, another trek mate. Though the weather was perfectly clear and ideal for driving through the winding roads of the Himalayas, it took us about 6 hours to cover a distance of 150 km, but none of us complained about it because the greenery along the road and the green water of the rivers we passed on our way, provided us with a much needed break we all were looking forward to. And before we even realised we were in Lanam Guest House, Yuksom (5770 ft).
@Lanam Guest House, Base Camp, Goechala Trek
Contrary to our expectations, the guest house was no less than a luxurious hotel with facilities like hot running water, electricity, and beds with huge quilts. Later that evening, the whole batch was briefed under the moonless sky bedecked with stars and the cold wind blowing from the east. The 16 of us were – Megha, Deepika, Chaitra, Arka, Sukhpreet, Rahul, Suresh, Anurag, Aditya, Rounak, Prashanth, Unni, Pushpam, Tanmay (trek lead), Dawa (guide), Namjang (co-guide). Our spirits were high and the energy in the team seemed to have filled the air with some sort of welcoming warmth, which we all enjoyed. After quick introductions, handshakes, smiles, greetings and delicious dinner, we were sent off to bed, so that we could make a fresh start tomorrow.
Day 2 – Yuksom to Sachen (7200 ft)
From left, Prashanth, Unni, Dawa, myself and Rounak
The first day of our trek began at about 9 am, first up the hill, through the village, past the houses on both sides, and then slowly into the forest. With each step, we left the world of known behind us and embraced the new world of mountains – incredibly raw but extraordinarily beautiful. The trail was thin, full of mosses, wet leaves, rotten wood, trees, climbers, and a river gushing down in earnest, but mostly it was flat. And so quickly, we made it to our first campsite at Sachen, with just a few short breaks. At first, I wasn’t really impressed with Sachen; it looked cramped, as if crying for more space, with tall trees looking down at us like ghosts and a huge hill at our back. But slowly, I began to appreciate its beauty and when I did, I smiled at the choice our trek leader Tanmay had made. Tanmay that evening told us about his adventures in the mountains and narrated us a ghost story too.
@Sachen camp site. Wonderfully placed isn’t it?
As always is the case in the mountains, the sun went down early pushing us into a long dark cold night, which we were able to negotiate with our torch lights and some light moments. With most of the trek still ahead of us, we went to sleep early to give our bodies enough rest.
Sachen at night
Day 3 – Sachen to Tshokha (9650 ft)
Once again the day started on a high note, with Aditya making sure that everyone is up early. He always gets chatty and energetic in the mountains, a really good characteristic to have, because it fills everyone with positive energy. After a quick breakfast, we continued on our journey through the heart of the forest – shady path with patches of yellow; green wood and sounds of hidden crickets and insects. Soon, we were at the foothill of the mountain. As we stood on the rope bridge, with river passing under our feet, it felt as if we were riding a wave and witnessing something remarkable in the company of that endless flow of water. Ahead of us was a steep climb to Tshokha, again through thick forest, and thus we had to move on.
From left, Dawa, Deepika, Unni, Aditya, Rahul, Sukhpreet, Megha, Anurag, Rounak, Prashanth, Myself and on the bottom left is Tanmay – the masked man
With Dawa – our trek guide – walking in the front, followed by Aditya, myself, Rounak, Anurag, Unni and Prashanth, we were doing great as a team and truly enjoying the beauty of the place, and thanking each other for choosing this trek. Half way through, we stopped at Bhakim – literally meaning home of bamboos – to feed ourselves. To our surprise, we also found chocolates, omelettes and a special spicy green peas snack, which we later called ZIGDAL SPECIAL, after Zigdal – son of the shop owner. He was a good child and we shared some nice moments together.
With Zigdal after having his special green peas snack
The journey from Bhakim to Tshokha lasted for about 2 hours, but when we reached Tshoka, we were completely blown away by its sheer magnificence. For me, it was one of the most beautiful campsites I had seen till now. It overlooked a valley and from there we could see six different layers of mountains, all green and thickly populated. Behind us was Pandim – a tall mountain peak covered in snow.
The campsite of Tshokha
Tshokha itself looked like a remote village with about ten houses, all wooden and followed an old architecture. It also had a monastery and a small lake. The monastery presented a panoramic view of the village, picture perfect, rich in colours, green grass, trees, shrubs, hills, cobbled pathway, brown wooden houses, white mountain peaks, tiny trails visible even from this far, reflection of white clouds hovering in the sky above, and horses drinking from the lake. All I had to do was close my eyes and absorb it all, which I did, but then it was difficult to take it all home.
@Tshokha Lake. Small yet serene
Day 4 – Tshokha to Dzongri (12980 ft)
It was bright and sunny, when we started our day. The path led us into a forest section with a wooden trail and rhododendrons on both sides. We were told that this section was developed by British for the trekkers. Sadly, there weren’t any flowers, but yet we could imagine its glamour, had they been flowering. Not that it demeaned its exquisiteness in any way, the path still looked artistic with a surprising coolness to the air and the smell of dying leaves touched by dew.
On the wooden trail, with rhododendrons on both sides.
After a full four hour ascent, we reached Phedang (12050 ft) and had our lunch. It was here, we were told, that a trekker had died a few days ago in a wooden hut behind us because AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) had hit him. We were also told by Tanmay that when in mountains live by the rules of the mountains and seek their blessings. We didn’t really know what he meant by that, and we didn’t care asking him again, as we were immersed in our walks through the cradle of nature amongst white peaks, green forests and clean air.
Mount Pandim from Phedang
The journey from Phedang to Dzongri took us about 2 hours and we felt exhausted by the time we were there. It was cold and windy, and so we were asked to take proper precaution of ourselves. We did as advised. Hot soup and snacks really helped us relax. That night was freezing cold with constant blow of wind hitting our tents; luckily we were well insulated.
Day 5 – To Dzongri top (13681 ft) and Thansing (12894 ft)
Some of the best moments come in our lives after we undertake some of the toughest journeys. When at 3 am that morning, in the midst of chilling wind and stone cold silence, we began our ascent to Dzongri Top – believed to be the meeting place of men and mountain gods – it felt as if we were like small children, filled with curiosity yet a strange fear, being led through a dark room to an unknown place where a surprise awaited us. Once at the top, we could hardly see anything except for the sky which was changing colours fast, from deep blue, violet, to red, orange, and yellow. Our spirits touched a new high, though we were freezing in cold, when the first light of the sun hit Kanchenjunga – the third highest peak in the world. We stood there in awe; we hadn’t seen anything as majestically beautiful as this. The golden appearance of Kanchenjunga looked as if beauty mixed with intelligence was shining on me.
First light on Kanchenjunga, golden, reddish-brown
Slowly, the curtains were pulled down further, revealing the rest of the mountain. Though we were shivering by now, from the inside we were thankful to the mountains for having shown us this. And for the first time, I realised what Tanmay meant when he said by the rules of the mountains and their blessings. One by one, all the peaks lit up in some sort of reddish-orange shade. We could see the extent of snow clinging on to mountains like a baby to his mother.
The group at Dzongri Top, with Aditya – the photographer on the left and Kanchenjunga behind us
Soon, the whole area was filled with warm, yellow light, casting long shadows, giving it a surreal feeling as if were a mystic oil painting. With these thoughts in mind, we came down, and after a quick bite of pancakes, we began our walk towards Thansing. Luckily we all were doing well, but then in mountains, it is hard to predict what’s brewing on the other side.
On our way to Thansing from Dzongri
Day 6 – Thansing to Lamuney (13693 ft)
The strangest thing about history is you don’t really know when it is underway; it is only later, when you look back, that you realize that you actually were there, when the history was being written. That long cold night at Thansing changed everything for us, but like I said, we weren’t aware while it was happening. It was only in the morning we realized that the cough I had heard last night, wasn’t just simple cough, but signs of something bigger. After a few medicines, Prashanth was on his way. That day even Megha struggled a bit. Aditya too complained of stomach upset. We all walked slowly that day, taking care of our mates.
View from Thansing Camp
Like always is the case, we thought we had things under control, but it was only when we reached Lamuney that we realised how wrong we were. While Aditya and Megha had recovered, Prashanth wasn’t doing that great. After a quick examination, he was given Dex ( a strong steroid medicine) and asked to rest. To add to our misery, his oxygen level started dropping rapidly. Within a span of 2 hours, it came down from 60 to 39. He was shivering badly and found it difficult to breathe. We were told by Tanmay that AMS had hit him. Now, it was up to Tanmay and us to take a decision. It wasn’t easy because barring the four of us, there still were 9 trekkers, who had go to Goechala Pass the next morning and return to Kockchurang. With Tanmay gone, it would be difficult to carry on like that, but like a brave leader he put his trust in the hands of Dawa and Baichung and decided to turn around from there.
And so, at 5 pm, six of us – Prashanth, Aditya, Rounak, Tanmay, Namjang, and I – left our group behind and began walking back. It was cold and dark. If Prashanth were to live, then we had to make it to Kockchurang at any cost, which was about 8 km from there. Our bodies were tired, but we had to push ourselves. Prashanth couldn’t walk more than a few steps. He struggled for breath. He had a slow pace. In that moment, we felt as if the mountains were turning their back on us. We thought we had lost their blessings, when we needed them the most. But in spite of all those thoughts, we continued to walk, taking small breaks and maintaining our slow rhythm.
At 12 midnight, we reached the wooden hut of Kockchurang, where Dawa’s cousin had arranged a place for us and cooked us dinner. Having reached Kockchurang wasn’t the end of our misery because in front of us was a long night of wait. Tanmay proposed that since it was necessary for all of us to rest as well, we should take turn to keep an eye on Prashanth. We agreed for it. It was a night of horror. Though Prashanth slept well, we could actually hear crackling noise from his lungs every time he breathed in. We continued to keep an eye on him, but it was only the next morning that we took a breathe of relief. He told us he was feeling better than yesterday. We thanked the mountains silently and prayed to keep us safe for the rest of our journey. Dex and Tanmay’s brave decision had worked for us, but there was still a long way to go.
Day 7 – Kockchurang to Tshokha (9650 ft)
Prashanth started the day on a high and maintained a good pace. Though it took us longer to get back to Tshoka than usual, we were still happy and kept thanking the mountains. We realised that, after all, they weren’t against us but had been helping us all the way along. While the walk to Phedang from Kockchurang is beautiful with rhododendrons on both sides, our focus was Prashanth. Yet we couldn’t help noticing some of the rare sights along the way of logs of wood pushed down the slope and some over hanging cliffs. It was mesmerizing. From Phedang, we really picked up speed and reached Tshokha in less than 2 hours. We spend the night there in the cottage and slept in peace. Prashanth was doing well.
Day 8 – Tshoka to Yuksom (5770 ft)
When on the last day, we finally made it back to the base camp safely; we congratulated each other, hugged and thanked Tanmay for his brave decision and for guiding us through with this. But most importantly, we thanked the mountains for their blessings. Later, Indiahikes took Prashanth to a nearby hospital, where the doctor declared him out of danger. We celebrated and waited for the rest of the group to arrive. When they finally got back the next day, we threw us at each other and talked for hours. Though, we couldn’t make it to View Point 1, we felt we saw it through the eyes of our teammates. Such was our bonding and understanding that were extremely pleased at their successful summit of View Point 1.
Enjoying the beauty of Sikkim after our Trek
Now, when we sit and recall the events of that day Prashanth had only one thing to say, “I felt I was just an hour away from death.” It was truly horrifying, but now having lived through that, it taught us a lot. When asked if he would go back to the mountains again, Prashanth added these lines with a smile, “Without a doubt we are going back again.”
The mountains are diverse, challenging, harsh and complex, yet they teach us a lot, and if we don’t go back to them again and again, it is us who will eventually lose out, not them.
Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion – Anatoli Boukreev
Thanks https://indiahikes.com/
Photos courtesy – Aditya Dogra
January 21, 2015
Portfolio of Photos
All the photos published here are taken by me with Canon 550d camera.
1. Taken at Haridwar, India
2. Taken at Mahakumbh Mela, India
3. Taken at Corsham Court, UK
4. Taken at Mahakumbh Mela, India
5. Taken at Khajuraho, India
6. Taken at Wells, UK
7. Taken at Wells, UK
8. Taken at Istanbul, Turkey
9. Taken at Berlin, Germany
10. Taken at Berlin, Germany
11. Taken at Agra, India
12. Taken at Delhi, India
13. Taken at Pushkar, India
14. Taken at Wells, UK
15. Taken at Cardiff, UK
March 11, 2013
Shades of Shadows
Have you ever wondered the significance of colors in your life? Every color has a significant role to play in our lives. Every moment the color of our shadow keeps changing and it displays a unique sense of code for others to see and perceive.
When a child is born he is blank and is unaware of strings of life. For him life is just a blank piece of white board where nothing has been written yet. He is confused. He is ignorant. He displays color white. Everyone of us when we started our journey displayed color WHITE.
As we grow, we display color RED. We are surrounded by our parents. We are surrounded by love. Everyone cares for us and everyone showers their blessings on us. It is a lovely red phase of love that we start toddling. We don’t have to seek attention, we are the centre of attention. This phase of life is color RED.
But unfortunately this phase doesnt last long as we are required to go out and explore the world. The first step we take after our RED phase decides our next phase. It is usually GREY. Our struggle starts and we are pushed to wall. We are made to suffer. For some this phase is long for some this phase is insignificant but everyone has to pass through this phase of life.
Another point which is worth noting is, that everyone’s life is a summation of all these three color of life. It usually rolls between WHITE, RED and GREY. Our life is a derivative of these colors.
So close your eyes for a moment and look into your inner self. I know it is not easy thing to do. Lets try again. Close your eyes. Close your ears to all other noise around you. Just think that you are alone and no one is watching you. You are sitting in a place with vast empty spaces all around you. Now just leap into your inner self and see what is the shade of your color today. Just ease into it..
Shade of your color will guide you. Seek its guidance. It helps
November 12, 2012
Shades of Shadows – First Chapter – WHITE
Shades of Shadows begins from the beginning of life on earth. It was all dark all around when the narrator opened his eyes. All he could see was silence and darkness, which made him ponder, what is this place..?
Slowly as he sees all around, he begins to find pleasure in the things around him, he begins to take note of things and he begins to appreciate them.
Then he spots Kavi. Kavi was lost in a world of his own thoughts.
The first chapter is named White because in the beginning Life was blank and so was Kavi. There are no emotions and feelings. White signifies plain emotions.
November 11, 2012
Shades of Shadows – My first Novel
Dear Friends
My first novel “Shades of Shadows” is out in book stores.
Summary of the book-
Every soul has a shadow. Every shadow has a shade. Every shade has a unique spirit.
It is the beginning of life on earth. Life sprouts in the navel of Kausar, a land blessed with beautiful contours and landscapes. As life opens its eyes in the backdrop of silence and darkness, beauty wrapped in mysterious silk sings for it. On such a changing canvas of Nature, Kavi meets Kavya. Love finds a new flavor in their romance and Kausar finds a new array in their presence. But with change in the mood of time, the melody of shades undergo a change. Will these melodies sustain the test of time..?
Join Kavi and Kavya on this poetic and intriguing journey to find out more…
Shades of Shadows is unique in its own sense. There are only two characters in the book and the story revolves around them. I have used 50 poems at various stages to express their emotions in a better way.
Theme of the Book -
The story is very poetic and moves slowly through the eyes of Kavi and Kavya.
Visit my website – www.pushpamsingh.com
You can read sample chapter here - http://pushpamsingh.com/download.html
You can order the book from Flipkart –
You can also order the book on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Shades-Shadows-Pushpam-Singh/dp/9381836620/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352451176&sr=8-1&keywords=9789381836620
Looking forward to hear soon from you all.
Happy Reading
July 20, 2012
Amarnath Yatra
If I were to paint the beauty of region around Amarnath Cave, I would certainly run out of words – Lofty peaks, snow covered glaciers, clear blue sky, cold gurgling streams, fresh breeze and green velvety landscape. The Holy cave is situated few kms away from Pahalgam in a secretive place of silence and harmony.
Amarnath cave finds its mention in Rajtarangini, an ancient scripture. In one of the scriptures it is mentioned that King Aryaraja (32 BCE) used to worship Lord shiva in this very cave.
According to Legend, in this very cave upon asked by Maa Parvati the secret of immortality, Lord Shiva shared his secret here. During the course of journey to the cave, he left Nandi at Pahalgam. He then released the moon from his hairs at Chandanwari. He released his snakes at Sheshnag. He left his son at Mahaganesh Top. He left behind the five elements which make a living being (earth, fire, water, air, sky). He then entered the cave along with Maa Parvati and took Samadhi on deer skin. In order to keep it secret he lit up fire all around cave and burnt everything down but couldn’t destroy an egg which was placed under deer skin. A pair of pigeon came out of that egg, which can be spotted in cave even now. Even I was lucky to spot one of those pigeon.
I along with 3 other friends Aditya, Sheetal and Anup decided to pay a visit to the Holy Cave in the month of July. Hence we made arrangements accordingly. But the first shock came when I came to know that my ticket to Jammu has not got confirmed. I boarded the train nevertheless and took a place in luggage van of the train. Till Ambala I was forced to travel in the luggage van. In Ambala we were thrown out of luggage van. I then decided to travel rest of my journey in sleeper class beside the door.
I reached Jammu the other day, where I met 2 other friends, Sheetal and Anup. We booked a taxi to Srinagar. Aditya met us in Srinagar. Once in Srinagar we were welcomed by curfew. We found difficulty in getting to Baltal base camp, but after sometime we found a jeep who was willing to take us to Baltal.
There are two ways to reach the cave. One is via Baltal which is shorter but has steep climb. Other route is Pahalgam, which is lengthy but less treacherous.
Sunset at Baltal was very scenic. There was a huge line of cars of pilgrims waiting to enter into the Base camp. After 2 hours of tortoise crawl inside the car we decided to walk on our foot for 2 km. Once inside the camp area we felt as if we were inside a crowded city centre. There were thousands of tents and thousands of people all walking towards those. There were hundreds of Langars for the pilgrims. Hats off to those who plan Langars in such places. We got ourselves a tent after dinner and retired for the day.
Next morning we got up early at 3 and prepared ourselves for the trek to the cave. With first light of the day we realized the beauty of place we were in. Baltal camp looked like a mesmeric beauty. Air was rich in fragrance. All my ears could hear was sweet sound of flowing stream of water. We spent our night beside that flowing water.
By 5 am we had hit the road to top. Like us there were thousands others waiting to climb to the top. There was a huge line of people on foot, in horses and in Palkis, all gearing to reach top.
Baltal route is very scenic in its own sense. High peaks, crafty terrains, glaciers, few trees here and there, rocks. I felt glad that still there are few places where nature exists in its raw form.
We reached Sangam top at around 11 am, where we met pilgrims coming from Pahalgam route. It felt as if two waves are going to merge. Chants of “Bum Bum Bhole…Om Namah Shivay..” was mystifying the whole space.
The first glimpse of the valley of Amarnath Caves felt my heart with a sense of achievement. ‘Wow’ my heart said and my camera couldn’t stop clicking the photos of the place. I felt as if I was part of history. Slowly we made our way towards the cave and by around 3 pm we finished our visit to the cave.
Once inside the cave, I felt a rush of excitement inside my head and my heart. My whole body wanted to jump in joy upon seeing the enigmatic and magical shiv lingam. It was right there in front of my eyes, the cave and the lingam for which people desire all their lives. I was right inside the cave where Lord Shiva had shared his secret of immortality with Maa Parvati. I could imagine my Lord sitting there on deer skin and sharing his secret. My eyes were scanning the topography of the cave. It was mysterious in its own ways. I spotted one of the pair of pigeon who had heard the secret of immortality from the mouth of Lord Shiva. I felt complete from within.
While Lord shiva was on right side of cave, Maa Parvati and Lord Ganesha was on left hand side of cave. I felt their presence with my own eyes. I stayed inside the cave for almost 5 minutes and asked myself “What if all this is true?”
We came out of the cave and had our lunch in one of the Langars. It was one of the sweetest curries I have ever had.
By this time we realized that we have lost track of one of our friends on the way. He took a horse ride to the top and we couldn’t meet each other. It added to our panic but we applied our mind and informed Army for announcement.
Hats off to Indian Army, we found our friend Anup in evening. This Yatra is made possible due to vigilant Army persons. It is their dedication to the job that we were able to finish this yatra.
We got ourselves a tent for the night and slept early as we had a long day tomorrow. We slept beside this melting river and on top of glaciers.
Next day we got up early again and hit the road to Pahalgam by 5 am. It is supposed to be 32 km walk by foot. Pilgrims generally come by this route; we decided to go by this route.
The first halt on this route was Panchtarni. Here Lord Shiva got rid of five elements. Panchtarni is a lovely place where glaciers were melting and forming rivers. Water was so fresh and clear in its outlook that we felt a new energy.
Our next halt was Poshpatri. By now we were totally walking on glaciers. Landscape all around was full of life. All my eyes could spot was limitless stretch of white snow and blue sky. Contrast was worth appreciation and it got its appreciation from every pilgrim. At Poshpatri I was amazed to see the size of Langar. It looked like a food court arrangement of a mall where people would pay to taste the flavor. Here it was all free. I thanked god and mankind for this arrangement. I realized that still mankind has some sense of compassion for others. We still care for others.
We continued our journey from here to next halt which was Mahaganesh Top. It is the highest point in whole journey. Journey from here was rather flatter and we were running short of time and hence we decided to run. Within no time we were at Sheshnag Lake.
Sheshnag Lake is really a divine Lake. Its green water gave me a fearless look of calmness. Glaciers all around the lake were continuously adding water to its reservoir, still there was no movement on its surface. We sat there for some time and watched the serenity of the lake. Camp at Sheshnag is a big establishment. As we reached Sheshnag camp we saw many people reaching the camp from other side.
We four were the only ones going down via this route, rest everyone were climbing up from this side.
We increased our speed from this point and reached our next halt Pissu Top within no time. I sacrificed some of the photographic spots too.
We reaches Chandanwari base camp at 8 pm. So within a day we had walked almost 35 km on foot and walked continuously for almost 13 hours. But at the end of it all it felt as if we had achieved something. We felt great that we had completed a journey which was worth walking. Journey to Amarnath is truly once in a lifetime experience.
I would suggest everyone to undertake this journey once in their lifetime and if possible try doing it on foot. Our feet were dead as we had almost walked 50 km in 2 days but still given a chance we would like to go back the next day.
That night we spent in the base camp of Pahalgam. Base camp of Pahalgam looked like a society in itself. Tents at reasonable price were available there. Many devotees had organized Langars in huge numbers. Next morning we got up late and started our journey back to Jammu.
Amarnath was one of the most incredible journey I have undertaken so far.
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