I have a longtime obsession with the white wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy. They are the country's best but largely unknown to Americans, and it's possible to spend a month in that border region (Austria to the north, Slovenia to the east) and not hear a word of English. The rolling vineyards are spectacular, and the wines they produce have a crisp, aromatic character thoroughly superior to the bland and flaccid stuff we drink at home. I'm actually writing this on a flight home from the area. (I visit at least once every year.) My checked bag is full of packed bottles whose names are wholly unfamiliar to American wine enthusiasts. I'll try to take my time drinking them. But when the last bottle is upturned, I'll sink into despondency for a few days. Then I'll book another trip and feel much better.


 


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