The Dawes Glacier was calving like crazy on this warm afternoon, but not when my camera was pointing in the right direction. Here’s the best photo I got: it shows nothing falling but it does show the big splash afterward. The sound was a big BOOM followed by the crash of water as the ice fell.

Harbor seals slept on the floating ice. We saw a pod of harbor porpoises, just sticking their noses up to look at us. (They’re porpoises but they look a lot like dolphins.) Then they vanished...