Cabbage is a vegetable that puts up with a lot. You can project onto it. You can say, “You’re asweet and crunchy, refreshing condiment,” and it says, “That’s me!” Or you can say, “You are a spicy, funky, perfect example of what lactic fermentation is good for,” and it says, “Exactly.” Or you can appreciate it for beinga nuanced, velvety decadence, say to it, “Gosh, you’re an classybrassica,” and it responds, “I’m yours.” Maybecabbage is a littletoo tolerating.

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