When Compagnoni died fifty-four years after the climb, his obituary in the New York Times focused on his choice to move the tent. A snap decision on K2 had cemented his reputation as the Judas of mountaineering.


“The dog is the most faithful of animals and would be much esteemed were it not so common. Our Lord God has made His greatest gifts the commonest.”
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“The devil, the originator of sorrowful anxieties and restless troubles, flees before the sound of music almost as much as before the Word of God....Music is a gift and grace of God, not an invention of men. Thus it drives out the devil and makes people cheerful. Then one forgets all wrath, impurity, and other devices.”
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“schade dass die Natur nur einen Mensch aus dir schuf / denn zum wurdigen Mann war und zum Schelmen der Stoff"
(loose translation: nature, alas, made only one being out of you although there was material for a good man & a rogue)”
― Faust, First Part
(loose translation: nature, alas, made only one being out of you although there was material for a good man & a rogue)”
― Faust, First Part
Matthew’s 2024 Year in Books
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