Just returned from a three day trip back to my surfing past in our old home base in New Zealand. We gathered together with good friends, including a few surf sessions with surfing mate Tony.

On the first paddle out, I felt like my right arm was channelling the Tin Man (torn muscle from our summer in California). Not as quick to heal as time rolls by.

As a wave approached, there was no pain, no past, no future. I spun the longboard and paddled like I had found the fountain of youth. On my feet and riding the pure liquid wave of energy, there was only this moment.
This is what I love about surfing.

In this day of instant communication chasing us daily, we all need our own wave to ride, in some way or form. Time to reflect on what is most important. Time to unplug the electronic drugs and take a walk in Mother Nature.