Paul
Paul asked Frances Mayes:

I am really enjoying taking a trip through a new regions of Italy. When you wrote about Italians love of Sunday meals together you also talked about your Grandma's (I'm guessing in Georgia) and you used a phrase that I was curious if it had a special meaning I wasn't understanding. the phrase is My grandmother had a button under her foot to call in Fanny Brown, who had a heavy hand with pepper.?

Frances Mayes It was just a bell hidden under the table to call in the cook at my grandparents' home!
Thanks, Frances

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